Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh hell no that aint to series II

sure it could be a 1996... but series II as we know them.. nopers..

hey missing link, how weird that it has the series II dash insert with the raised edges and then a 1995 steering wheel. and no dual bags. ?

and the seats etc

alpha can you ask him what his original bumper looked like?

does the indicator stalk still have facility to turn on or off fog lights?

I had a GSR Lancer for awhile " poor thing found the back end of a truck and never drove again.. That had a killer engine it it 4G93 however I think a Gti Proton with Turbo would be hell fast.. they weigh nothing..

That Skyline looks strange - has series 2 rear end, sereis 1 front end ... and a mixed interior...

I would stay the fark away .... looks dodgy.... chop shop job maybe?????

to many maybe's with that car....

keep looking is my advise.

Daniel

The steering wheel is definitely Series I.

The Dash is Series II although its missing a passenger airbag. Series 1.5's have a passenger airbag.

The front is Series I Type M.

The rear, i dont know :D

Maybe a joined half cut when it was involved in an accident as some have suggested?

I think im going to stay away from it.. Its a shame.. It was $15'000 and thats damn cheap " should have known that I wouldnt get a Series two for that much"

People be warned!

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=25

  • 4 weeks later...

after having my name and my car questioned in these forums, i did some serious, and expensive checking on the cars history. the car is definitely a series 2 bought in dec 96. the previous lady owner actually spoke a little english (thank f|_|ck), the reason for the different lights and some interior are the fact that she hit a dog at 65 k's, it bent up the front right guard, bonnet, and smashed the light. also the drivers side airbag went off. she had all ready signed the contract for sale to the importer and only had 2 days to get the car fixed. the lights are the original that came with the car (she put some after market blue ones in), the guards are from a series 2, the bonnet is from a series 1.5, and the drivers steer wheel is from a her brothers car, she thinks it was a 95. that came over the same day. no doubt some1 in here has it. (i pity the bloke that does, now that is a chop job, unrepairable front end damage, it should have a similar timed comp plate, car used to be black, w/ a blitz bodykit, and a few mods the motor). also just to provide evidense of the compliance and build dates i have some compliance pics, maybe some of the people in here just dont really know as much as they think they do. and you know if yall wanted to know all you had to do was ask for the pics

Did you end up selling it to a car yard???

Also you didnt know what make the rims are did you?

Sorry I questioned it that much, Im still not sure if I believe you 100% but Im not sure its your fault as it wasnt your car. Its good that you "did some serious, and expensive checking on the car" I would have done this before trying to sell it.

as you know adam, finances are tight and prior to selling car i was trying to run a family on $329 p/w compo pay prior to tax, and the mags on the brothers car she didnt know but they where white i think she said, it wasn't easy trying to understand her, but the ones on this weren't on it when she had it, she had stockies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...