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Boost Controller

Binky1970

By Binky1970,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

there is an even cheaper option which will work extremely well. find a Norgren Industries (pneumatics company) outlet near you and go there. purchase a pressure relief valve and a pressure regulater valve. make sure you get the screw-in adjustable ones! they come with 7bar springs in them standard, you will need two .7bar springs. also get four barbed hose fittings to fit your wastegate hose.

all up it should cost you about 80-90 bucks.

install them in series (with the new springs!) in the wastegate-compressor housing feed line, with the pressure relief valve first and the pressure regulater valve second in order of pressurised airflow to the wastegate.

what will happen is that at any boost below, say, 12psi (they are completely adjustable) the pressure relief valve will not let ANY air through at all. this eliminates ALL wastegate creep. you will get full boost as fast as possible with your setup. at 12psi the relief valve will open and let air through to the regulator valve.

the regulator valve will hold the air coming to it at exactly, say, 13psi. this means your wastegate will open at 13 psi. the system will then instantly reach an equilibrium at your desired boost level of 13 psi and will open/close the wastegate as desired to maintain that boost level. if boost falls below 13psi, the wastegate will instantly close fully until that level is reached again.

so there you go, a fail-safe and excellent cheap anti-creep, anti-spike boost control setup. both the valves are fully adjustable and have "lock-down" ability once you set them. because they are built to handle 7+bar of air pressures (100+psi!) they are extremely accurate and fail-safe. give it a go and see if you don't like it, hell it's even cheaper than a stupid bleed-valve from turbosmart or similar.

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DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
there is an even cheaper option which will work extremely well. find a Norgren Industries (pneumatics company) outlet near you and go there. purchase a pressure relief valve and a pressure regulater valve. make sure you get the screw-in adjustable ones! they come with 7bar springs in them standard, you will need two .7bar springs. also get four barbed hose fittings to fit your wastegate hose.

all up it should cost you about 80-90 bucks.

install them in series (with the new springs!) in the wastegate-compressor housing feed line, with the pressure relief valve first and the pressure regulater valve second in order of pressurised airflow to the wastegate.

what will happen is that at any boost below, say, 12psi (they are completely adjustable) the pressure relief valve will not let ANY air through at all. this eliminates ALL wastegate creep. you will get full boost as fast as possible with your setup. at 12psi the relief valve will open and let air through to the regulator valve.

the regulator valve will hold the air coming to it at exactly, say, 13psi. this means your wastegate will open at 13 psi. the system will then instantly reach an equilibrium at your desired boost level of 13 psi and will open/close the wastegate as desired to maintain that boost level. if boost falls below 13psi, the wastegate will instantly close fully until that level is reached again.

so there you go, a fail-safe and excellent cheap anti-creep, anti-spike boost control setup. both the valves are fully adjustable and have "lock-down" ability once you set them. because they are built to handle 7+bar of air pressures (100+psi!) they are extremely accurate and fail-safe. give it a go and see if you don't like it, hell it's even cheaper than a stupid bleed-valve from turbosmart or similar.

Yeah - that is a good setup from autospeed, but it's damn risky not telling the person to be very careful with adjusting the knobs!!! something for yo uto keep in mind...

This is best set up (as are all boost controllers) on a dyno. Another problem with the above set up, is once it is set, you can't really lean out the window and adjust the setting for a wet road, or a 'hit' of boost. How does it go with a factory EBC???

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

If you can read, interpret instructions and solder OK then the Jaycar Intelligent Boost Controller works very well and has some quite unique advantages. Have a read in the Stagea section for the results.

you can't really lean out the window and adjust the setting for a wet road, or a 'hit' of boost.

I have a throttle pedal on my car for that purpose.

:)

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benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

Is the Norgren setup really that good though? I mean at the moment i'm just using a dual-stage bleed valve (unsure of brand but it's name brand) but my boost isn't holding at what it's set at (12-13psi). When I ask local tuners/mechanics I get the typical "it is because you have a stock ecu" or "thats a stock turbo for ya" etc etc when they don't even know what components I have.

Do you think if I changed to this Norgren setup it would fix the problem below (set to 12 but only holding 9psi regardless of if I set it at 10 or even 13psi)... ?

198rwkw-small.jpg

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grepin Experienced

grepin

Posted
Posted

I have a hiperboost control i will sell if your interested. Bought it as hoped the wastegate control valve would help my boost drop at high revs however now realise the turbo is running out of puff. Works quiet well otherwise. Keeping my PFC boost controller.

You can have it for half price posted for $200. Read about it here.

http://www.hiperboost.com/

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Is the Norgren setup really that good though? I mean at the moment i'm just using a dual-stage bleed valve (unsure of brand but it's name brand) but my boost isn't holding at what it's set at (12-13psi). When I ask local tuners/mechanics I get the typical "it is because you have a stock ecu" or "thats a stock turbo for ya" etc etc when they don't even know what components I have.

Do you think if I changed to this Norgren setup it would fix the problem below (set to 12 but only holding 9psi regardless of if I set it at 10 or even 13psi)... ?

If that is a standard turbo you may well be running out of airflow, insufficient airlfow to hold the boost. If that is the case, it doesn't mastter what boost controller you fit.:/

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benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

* Can I swap just the AFM from a S2 -> Z32 without needing to change anything else? (ie; requiring aftermarket ECU etc)

* Is their a way that I can check if my S2 stock AFM is maxing out without removing/modifying anything?

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R33vit Experienced

R33vit

Posted
Posted

Benm

the Norgren controller will not stop your std turb running outta puff.

Get a R32 Acturator (10psi)and the Norgren setup, at least the creep will be gone and the controller will have some of the load taken away from it.

Mine makes full boost (12psi) by 26 - 2700rpm. It does however drop of to around 9psi even with the R32 Acturator.

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DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

I found on the nissansilvia.com site that they have the Blitz SBC iD III for the AMAZING price of $590 delivered!!!! That is Fu*king awesome, considering I paid $700 for mine 2 weeks ago!!!

The silvia guys have much more/better group buys!!! what is going on?!?!?! I'm getting my PFC+HC for $1050 delivered from there as well!!!!

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benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Hey R33vit. You say you make full boost by 2600-2700 rpm. What gear is that in - is that in 4th.

I find in my car with full 3 inch turbo back exhaust I get full 7psi of boost at about 2900rpm in 1st and 2nd...and by just over 2000rpm in 4th or 5th gear.

I was hoping to just fit the Norgren relief valve with check valve to get increased response. Would you get full 7psi by 2500rpm in 1st or 2nd with the Norgren anti creep setup?

Is there a decent gain at part to half throttle etc?

Maybe I'll start a new thread...

Thanks

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Memph Proficient

Memph

Posted
Posted

i have been using my GReddy Profec Bspec II for a while now, i like it. seems to do the job.

i have never used any other elec boost control. so i cant really compare it to much. but i was using a bunnings style bleed valve before that and you cant really compare :(

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[WLDCRD] Mentor

[WLDCRD]

Posted
Posted

i have an AVCR but i intend on chaning it with an HKS EVC4. I heard that the Blitz and the HKS ones are better. But i believe its marginal. If you want a screen thingy, go the AVCR (or HKS EVC5 but thats more expensive).

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paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ive got the hks evc3 (old school style, inasnt has same but with ext gate) in r33 series 2 with stocker turbo. its a simple set and forget device, has support to learn the boost curve and wastegate open pressure. holds boost perfectly and its only ever overboosted once and it beeps when it happens. nice and cheap and provides a good reliable solution

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