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Just to let you know i have went faster

but i am having big problems with the first 60ft

60FT 1.65secs

330FT 4.21secs

660FT 6.24secs

@ 121.95MPH

990FT 7.90secs

Terminal Speed 158.7MPH

TERMINAL TIMEof 9.38secs.

thanks Keith

Hi Keith, we don't do much drag racing, circuit racing is what we are about, however there is something that we found on the R32's that may be relevant.

Some time ago we removed the standard fuel tank and replaced it with a much smaller alloy one, this left a big space under the floor. At the same time we damaged the front splitter and had to run one session without it. The driver reported that at high speed it was difficult to control the change of direction. We refitted the standard fuel tank and the splitter was repaired for the next race, no other changes. The driver reported no high speed stability problems.

Hope that might be of some use:cheers:

Hi Sydneykid

We now have the car running in a straight line no problem there at all.

The problem I have now is the car bogging off the start line

if I warm the MT Et tyres and try a launch at 9000 revs the car bogs big time.

if I don't warm them I get all 4 wheels spinning for about the first 4 car lengths.

Not sure what to do about this,whether to run Nittos or stick with the MT's

and try to get it off the line playing with the suspension.

what is the max speed you can run on a set of 275X40X17 drag nittos

thanks Keith

Hi Sydneykid

We now have the car running in a straight line no problem there at all.

The problem I have now is the car bogging off the start line

if I warm the MT Et tyres and try a launch at 9000 revs the car bogs big time.

if I don't warm them I get all 4 wheels spinning for about the first 4 car lengths.

Not sure what to do about this,whether to run Nittos or stick with the MT's

and try to get it off the line playing with the suspension.

what is the max speed you can do on a set of 275X40X17 drag nittos

thanks Keith

Hi Sydneykid

We now have the car running in a straight line no problem there at all.

The problem I have now is the car bogging off the start line

if I warm the MT Et tyres and try a launch at 9000 revs the car bogs big time.

if I don't warm them I get all 4 wheels spinning for about the first 4 car lengths.

Not sure what to do about this,whether to run Nittos or stick with the MT's

and try to get it off the line playing with the suspension.

what is the max speed you can run on a set of 275X40X17 drag nittos

thanks Keith

I believe the guys over here in NZ are using Nitrous off the line to stop the car bogging.. :cheers:

Hi Keith what psi are you running in the rear

Theo

Hi Theo

we are running 18 psi in the rear's and 19 psi in the front

we have the HKS drag dampers on the rear at 5 clicks and 20 on the front

in the rear we have 4K springs front are 5K.

I think the car will run a 8 sec 1/4 if we can sort out the first 60 ft.

here are a few photos from the weekend

PICT0145smaller.jpg

CowiesR32.jpg

are they 26x9 slicks or 26x10. I know it is alot of work but if you are having it as a drag specific car its worth the effort= 28 inch tall slicks. They are night and day between 26 and 28 the only limiting factor is they dont fit easily you would have to make some mods. Here is Oz we have a really popluar car for street style drag cars, and it the VL commodore, now on a VL we recently worked on we tried everything to get it to go faster than 10.6 softer springs, harder different spring rates different eveything the car still was doing 10.5's at 135MPH+ as soon as we rolled the gaurds and fitted the bigger slick it not only dropped times, pressure was far less crucial it stoped squitting and bogging or bagging the wheels and it stopped alot of track wondering. Just something to consider as alot of the 28 tyres are arounf 27.5 they might fit easier than I thought. However having said all that the JAPs only run 26 and they do the times so keep playing with damper rates I guess. Cheers, Daniel.

Hi keith

noticed the thread and thought i might be able to help.

Looked at the vid .car had major wheelspin on the rear.suspension looked a little stiff at the rear also.looks like you need to apply more drive to the front and dont be affraid to use the clutch a little more off the line.(better to wear a clutch than smash a box ).Tyre pressures sound a little to high though.let the car squat more.

I dont know your engine set up ,power output/power band, so im taking a bit of an educated guess from your video.

hope to wecome you to the 8 sec club soon

GTR R33 8.2 @167mph 1.30 sixty foot

best sixty foot 1.28 on shake down pass

Jim Souvas

Tech Engineer

CRD

  • Like 1
Hi keith

noticed the thread and thought i might be able to help.

Looked at the vid .car had major wheelspin on the rear.suspension looked a little stiff at the rear also.looks like you need to apply more drive to the front and dont be affraid to use the clutch a little more off the line.(better to wear a clutch than smash a box ).Tyre pressures sound a little to high though.let the car squat more.

I dont know your engine set up ,power output/power band, so im taking a bit of an educated guess from your video.

hope to wecome you to the 8 sec club soon

GTR R33 8.2 @167mph 1.30 sixty foot

best sixty foot 1.28 on shake down pass

Jim Souvas  

Tech Engineer  

CRD

Jim

Thank's for your help

i have sent you a pm with the car spec

thanks Keith

Just to let you know i have went faster

but i am having big problems with the first 60ft

60FT 1.65secs

330FT 4.21secs

660FT 6.24secs

@ 121.95MPH

990FT 7.90secs

Terminal Speed 158.7MPH

TERMINAL TIMEof 9.38secs.

thanks Keith

Shit yeah! And plenty left with that short time.

Kieth

I think that the easy way out would be more clutch slip, I assume you have a giken 4 or R3C which is very much an on or off affair. I spoke to reece magregor some time ago about a carbon clutch that he was using with his Hollenger & he said that the thing about the carbon clutch was that you could let it slip, creating boost off the line. It is all very well tweaking the rear end to allow some wheel spin before hook up, but you are never going to be able to calibrate this as easily as the clutch.

check your email regarding Giken trans

Kieth

I think that the easy way out would be more clutch slip, I assume you have a giken 4 or R3C which is very much an on or off affair. I spoke to reece magregor some time ago about a carbon clutch that he was using with his Hollenger & he said that the thing about the carbon clutch was that you could let it slip, creating boost off the line. It is all very well tweaking the rear end to allow some wheel spin before hook up, but you are never going to be able to calibrate this as easily as the clutch.

check your email regarding Giken trans

Dicky

Yes my clutch is a Giken R4C

i will try a bit of clutch slip when i run the car again.

i did not get a email from you please try again

Keith

Dicky

Yes my clutch is a Giken R4C

i will try a bit of clutch slip when i run the car again.

i did not get a email from you please try again

Keith

what I was after was some pointers re your sequential trans, I have got one on the way from giken , anything to look out for, i.e. have you learn't anything from experience that I should not do with it ?????? Giken gave me a 1000 or 1200 hp clutch option, but only quoted a R3C, what's your opinion, considering this car is going to have some street use how hard is the pedal with the R4C?

I will be breaking my engine in this week then going for a full power dyno run on pump gas, will wait for trans to arrive before trying c16 & nos.

re your launch problems, does the car make any boost on the line when using launch control ?

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