Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if its a 33 you dont need to take the front shaft out at all.

ask markr34gtr for the details, but when mine went on the dyno all he did was bleed the fluid from the in-tank boot for the attezza, and poped the plug from under the dash and ran rwd no probs basically. took maybe 5-10min and no hoist.

How do people dyno a GTR on a 2wd dyno? Do they take the front drive shaft off? If this is the case, wouldn't gear oil spill everywhere?

You don't take the shaft out, you just disconnect it. :boinkcar:

you unplug the 4wd fuses then crack the pressure out of the line that goes to the back of the transfer case.... as r33 and 34 have constant pressure to the transfer case so the 4wd sytstem is preloaded to some extent....

but you will have to bleed the 4wd system when your done on the dyno....

if you dont know how to do it dont risk it just go to a 4wd dyno.....

hope this helps...

Has anyone tried doing what the R33 Service manual says to do (see attached pic).

No. 1 says to unplug the air evac plug under the dash, turn the ignition on and pump the brakes 5 times with 10 seconds of turning the ignition on.

If you've done it right the 4wd light on the dash will flash twice every 1 second....

Might be easier than draining fluid and then bleeding the system when you've finished.

I'm going to try it on my Stagea to see if it works (not sure if it will, I think the ATTESSA is slightly different). I just need to work out which plug to disconnect cause the diagram isn't much help !!

J

OK, just spent the last hour outside having a play.

Looking under the dash I found one plug that had a single black wire going into it and a single yellow (with a stripe) coming out of it - see the attached pic.

I found the plug strapped to another wiring loom, and if the GTR's under dash is the same as the Stagea's, then just follow the hood realise cable and it's sitting right near it (you'll see it in the pic).

I thought it was strange that it was very accessible :rolleyes:

So I pulled the plug apart, started the car and pumped the brakes 5 times within 10 seconds and you wouldn't know it but the 4wd light started flashing twice for every second !!!

I suppose this will be safe to do seems that it's in the R33 service manual. It doesn't say anything about 'do not drive the car like this etc...', but it'll be good to try it out on some dirt or wet grass somewhere to see if only the rears spin.

Anyway, I thought this may help a few people so give it a try.

Anybody want to comment?

J

OK, just spent the last hour outside having a play.

Looking under the dash I found one plug that had a single black wire going into it and a single yellow (with a stripe) coming out of it - see the attached pic.

I found the plug strapped to another wiring loom, and if the GTR's under dash is the same as the Stagea's, then just follow the hood realise cable and it's sitting right near it (you'll see it in the pic).

I thought it was strange that it was very accessible :D

So I pulled the plug apart, started the car and pumped the brakes 5 times within 10 seconds and you wouldn't know it but the 4wd light started flashing twice for every second !!!

I suppose this will be safe to do seems that it's in the R33 service manual.  It doesn't say anything about 'do not drive the car like this etc...', but it'll be good to try it out on some dirt or wet grass somewhere to see if only the rears spin.

Anyway, I thought this may help a few people so give it a try.

Anybody want to comment?

J

Yep that works, only the rears spin, both of them too :D Taking it out to Willowbank 2nite to see which way I get the quicker times, judging by how easy it spins up the wheels I think 4WD will be quicker ;)

Wow, now that is good to hear.

Now I presume if there was some (any) torque going to the front wheels they would spin while up on the hoist and you had the backs spinning with throttle. Even the slightest bit of torque would make the fronts turn.....

Great news :P

J

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...