Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive just receantly bought a r32 gtr and it came with a switch in the boot to change from 4wd to rwd . all i have to do is while the cars turned off press the button then switch the car on and the 4wd light comes on (no other lights come on)then if i want 4wd just do the same thing . i havent been game enough to drive it in rwd drive yet lol. anyway heres a pic of the switch

post-64866-1250119234_thumb.jpg

post-64866-1250119336_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
How do people dyno a GTR on a 2wd dyno? Do they take the front drive shaft off? If this is the case, wouldn't gear oil spill everywhere?

i got a R34 with AWD, and i always disconnect the AWD and make it RWD, all u gotta do is find the electrical plug near the diff under the car on the driver side. its a black squarish shape and you should see it easily, it disconnects the front wheels like 100% just take a look at my pics :D

post-66547-1253103278_thumb.jpg

post-66547-1253103339_thumb.jpg

i got a R34 with AWD, and i always disconnect the AWD and make it RWD, all u gotta do is find the electrical plug near the diff under the car on the driver side. its a black squarish shape and you should see it easily, it disconnects the front wheels like 100% just take a look at my pics :D

I hope you've got the money tucked away to get a new transfercase. R33 and R34 transfercases have preload on the clutch packs (which will likely overheat them without electrical power to the ATTESSA system), this trick should only be done on the R32's because they don't have any preload on the clutch packs. It's why any smart dyno operators drop the front shaft with R33/R34s.

  • 2 months later...
i got a R34 with AWD, and i always disconnect the AWD and make it RWD, all u gotta do is find the electrical plug near the diff under the car on the driver side. its a black squarish shape and you should see it easily, it disconnects the front wheels like 100% just take a look at my pics smile.gif

I hope you've got the money tucked away to get a new transfercase. R33 and R34 transfercases have preload on the clutch packs (which will likely overheat them without electrical power to the ATTESSA system), this trick should only be done on the R32's because they don't have any preload on the clutch packs. It's why any smart dyno operators drop the front shaft with R33/R34s.

I also have an R34 AWD. i pulled the fuse once on grass and gave it a little kick and its definately rear wheel drive. just didnt keep it off incase i ruined something (transfer case) so reading through this thread a few people have said remove shaft and others have said to bleed something. i dont know how to do either of these. is it ok if someone explained to me how to do it safely.

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
×
×
  • Create New...