Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got an r33gtst series 1 and 4th gear i have to put in really slow or ill get a crunch and 3rd does it sumtimes when im changing gears fast. My mechanic told me its synchros and said its a big job because you have to get the gearbox out. How much do you guys think I can get it done for, use know any cheap places?

the gearbox will have to be removed and disassembled. Each gear, shim, syncro, fork, retaining clip, etc... will have to be removed one by one off the shaft to reach the 4th gear synchro. Not an entirely difficult job, but a tedious and somewhat time consuming job

... what he said ;) I'll add that if you have the box out and down, you should do a bearing set in it (which significantly changes the parts bill from just 1 or 2 synchros but will save you pulling it down for bearings later).

Regards,

Saliya

the gearbox will have to be removed and disassembled. Each gear, shim, syncro, fork, retaining clip, etc... will have to be removed one by one off the shaft to reach the 4th gear synchro.  Not an entirely difficult job, but a tedious and somewhat time consuming job

Not as easy as it sounds... I had to change the bearings in mine and it was a bitch.

If you dont have a proper bearing puller i wish you luck.

I ended up pulling it appart on a sunday so the shops were all shut and had to fabricate my own puller and it was still a bitch...

before u decide to pull down the box drain the oil and get some new oil. This worked on a mates pajero, they put in some fancy oil at some stuped high price and he got another 2 years before something else broke. also a full bearing and syncro kit will cost heaps.

I agree totally with "surfiemullet"

Buy a teflon treatment for around $15 and some Castrol Syntrax or redline shockproof oil first ($130).

I had the same type of dramas on an STi gearbox which would have cost me massive $$$$.

I changed the oil in the box with the addition of teflon treatment, drove for about 400km and it never caused me another problem. Before I did this it would crunch badly changing into second after 4000rpm

ok i just did mine same as you 4th clrunched. Cost me including a new clutch and bearings, oil, flywheel machiened, and labour $2400. The synchros are like $750 i replaced all of them too, no point doing 1 or 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...