Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why? Both this thread and the DYI Manual Conversion thread, (Both on SDU & SAU) Are in the list of threads thread.

Niether of them will die, they will still be easily available via the sticky thread or by searching.

I think both threads are unique, this one is a list and has part numbers and the like, and the dyi actually has it being done....?

PM Me if you want them merged, If I get a big responce then I'll do it :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Just had a thought when doing the conversion or if you are replacing the clutch if your car is already a manual.

Preventive maintenace

Inspect and change the real main seal on the crank shaft

Much easier to do now with the gearbox out :mellow:

Well i kind of started my manual conversion today. my handbrake (footbrake) turned out to have a tired spring, so it doesn't release anymore. Marc2 kindly removed it from my car, and so i began to install a regular handbrake tonight. i have the bracket (pictured) but have yet to figure out how it installs. there are 2 bolt tacked onto the transmission tunnel that hold in some sort of gravity assembly (purhaps air bag sensor?) and these match 2 bolts coming from my bracket. if anyone has used this bracket (from S2 RS4-S) can you tell me how you installed it? i hope it doesn't involve too much cutting.

post-4352-1154516498.jpg

post-4352-1154516507.jpg

anywho, i need to undo this other assembly piece at the back of the tunnel to detach the old handbrake cable and attach the new one, but it appears the bolts have a security bit on them. has anyone had to deal with these bits yet, and if so, how? i'm stumped.

post-4352-1154516488.jpg

anywho, i need this repaired by the weekend because i'm doing a defensive driving course and i'm pretty sure i'll need a handbrake.

the special bolt needs a torx set of allen key type things, i dont remember the exact size they are but they can be undone with multigrips if u have too or go buy a set of torq (or torx) keys i cant think of the exact name but its something like that.

Edited by CruiseLiner

Not sure if these photos will help, Andrew, but here goes:

From the rear seat:

Stageabits014.jpg

G-sensor for the ATTESA:

Stageabits013.jpg

...and again from the front driver's seat (with the console off):

Stageabits018.jpg

It's right here:

Stageabits003s.jpg

The airbag computer (which is held down by those TORX bolts you mentioned):

Stageabits015.jpg

And a few pics of the handbrake mount...

from the passenger's side:

Stageabits020.jpg

Stageabits019.jpg

from the back again:

Stageabits017.jpg

Stageabits016.jpg

and from the driver's side:

Stageabits018.jpg

thanks guys. tha bracket is the RS4-S handbrake bracket for attaching the handbrake to. i see how i have to do it now, thanks Nick. i have too much on my bracket and i'll have to cut some of the welds. at least i know i'm not an idiot, i had it set up exactly how you did, but i need to get under the airbag sensor with the torx bolts so i can attach the new handbrake cable, i don't think you can get it out without getting underneath it.

now all i need is a mate with a welder.

thanks guys, i'll let you know how i go today.

  • 2 months later...

just thought i'd dig up an old thread. i started installing my clutch pedal today. make sure, if you order the stagea RS-FOUR S pedal and bracket, that you also get the spring and bolt that go with it. i didn't do this, but luckily i had an R33 clutch pedal and bracket lying around. these are almost identical units, except the R33 only has one top bolt hole, where as the stagea has 2 that line up with threads already installed in the firewall.

I also needed a 32mm (1 1/4") hole bit to cut out for the master cylinder. the hole is already cut into the acoustic padding, and there is a cast circle for where the hole goes. nissan did everything for this manual except put the bloody thing in the series 1...

terminal would you say that the conversion so far has been easy?

As in not too difficult for someone to do at home up to a point and then get a workshop with a hoist to put the box in. (Unless you are lucky enough to have a hoist) I would like to do this myself but want to make sure I am not in over my head

yeah getting the part in is pretty easy. the handbrake was pretty simple to change, then installing the centre console is a breeze. i'll have to take it out when the gearbox goes in but apart from that it was easy. the clutch pedal needs a bit of mucking around, but i don't think it'll be too hard to finish on stands. the brake pedal needs to be changed, which means removing and replacing the pedal with a thinner manual one. apart from that there's not much else i can do, i;m getting it installed at a mechanics as i don't have the time to do it, and i don't want to wreck the car trying to do it.

  • 4 years later...

Just digging up an old thread here,

I have a 98 series 2 RS V meaning its just rear wheel drive.

I'm wondering if the manual conversion will be as hard and whether i'll need such specific parts such as - clutch pedal assembly, and pedal box.

Could i basically use pedal box, manual gear box, hand brake assembly, drive shaft etc all out of a rear drive gtst r33 skyline?

i was thinking about just buying a wreck from an auctions and parting it out using all the bits i need for my conversion

Cheers

Edited by madwag
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...