Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rrrage interior looks clean as... good pickup.

Best thing for u to do would be justb to swap the position of the CD player and the TV around... very easy and should only take about half an hour. I had to do the same thing with the TV in Josies Soarter cause when u put it in park and the TVs out it wont go in properly.

as for wheels... on a black R32 the best is to go white with the stock wheels... white on black looks good.... black on black looks pox... and we wont even go into gold stock rims. at least the stock 32 rims look good... unlike those cheap nasty looking R33 rims... worst... ever.

cheers gojira ... will take that into account. we did some hard driving and braking while testing it out and the tires seemed okay, but i'll have a talk to the people that matter about it.

Yep... good idea. Mainly look on the sidewall at the treadwear, anything above 300 would concern me on a performance car.

Also just check, I think the tyres are mounted in the wrong rotation direction as well. :headspin:

142-4203_IMG.jpg

Awesome rrrage!!!! Im looking for exactly the same thing, stock black 2 door 32gtst!

you said that you had to have it complied.. does that mean that the person that your buying it off only bought it in jp and landed it? I didn't realize ppl did that.

congratulations can't wait to see it sometime in the not too distand future.

foz... there were, before the 15 year rule change many guys here who have a japanese contact who buys cars, they import them and sell them off here for a profit... he included compliance and road worthy in his price.

Yep... good idea. Mainly look on the sidewall at the treadwear, anything above 300 would concern me on a performance car.  

Also just check, I think the tyres are mounted in the wrong rotation direction as well. :headspin:  

142-4203_IMG.jpg

hah you're right, the triangular pattern should point forwards! will just have to swap left with right

as for wheels... on a black R32 the best is to go white with the stock wheels... white on black looks good.... black on black looks pox...

ahem.

I wouldn't say that. (not a good pic but u get the idea)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=31807

Yep... good idea. Mainly look on the sidewall at the treadwear, anything above 300 would concern me on a performance car.  

Also just check, I think the tyres are mounted in the wrong rotation direction as well. :headspin:  

142-4203_IMG.jpg

Yeah, the triangular patter should face backwards shouldn't it... will have to swap the right side rims wiht left.

"Roys 32 is to Motorsport as vaginal bleeding is to fellatio"

 

ROFL...Thats gold. You are quite the wordsmith:)

What saddens me is that your keen observation is true:(

Beat up on me and my R32, but rrage's R32 is virginal and shoudlnt be tarred with the same brush. :(

Oh hang on..you did say Roys R32:( ...... :(

...and Shiv :whackit: me likes :P

ahem.

I wouldn't say that.  (not a good pic but u get the idea)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=31807

u cant even tell what rims they are spaz.

ROFL...Thats gold. You are quite the wordsmith:)  

What saddens me is that your keen observation is true:(

Beat up on me and my R32, but rrage's R32 is virginal and shoudlnt be tarred with the same brush.  :(  

Oh hang on..you did say Roys R32:(   ...... :(

...and Shiv :whackit: me likes  :P

lmao

sorry couldnt help it after i saw ur sig.

u cant even tell what rims they are spaz.

I posted that same pic on another thread and ppl spotted the type of rim.

TE37's doofus. :P

Roy - thanks dude. Its good to finally have it. I took it for a spin (closed roads seeing as its not registered yet) and it was a pretty amazing feeling. I still miss the GTS-T tho :(

Shoulda kept it

Shiv....Well ill have to add you to my list of cheaters who i must destroy:)

Or continue to blow up trying to beat:(

...inark, get your cameras ready. Idiot me is going to give this grift...i mena drift thing a go, just have to find someone to share some real nasty 16x6" rims with:)

...about my sig, i hope ppl realise im taking the pi55:) Anything you get a kick out of is a good thing:cheers: Just trying to encourage a bit of tribe / loyalties thing :(

I posted that same pic on another thread and ppl spotted the type of rim.

TE37's doofus.  :P

Roy - thanks dude. Its good to finally have it. I took it for a spin (closed roads seeing as its not registered yet) and it was a pretty amazing feeling. I still miss the GTS-T tho :(

Shoulda kept it

which doesnt disprove the fact that STOCK R32 RIMS look shit in black on a black car.

Shiv....Well ill have to add you to my list of cheaters who i must destroy:)  

Or continue to blow up trying to beat:(

...inark, get your cameras ready. Idiot me is going to give this grift...i mena drift thing a go, just have to find someone to share some real nasty 16x6" rims with:)

...about my sig, i hope ppl realise im taking the pi55:)  Anything you get a kick out of is a good thing:cheers:    Just trying to encourage a bit of tribe / loyalties thing :(

HAHA

awesome where and when??

The next calder night...want to stay away from Morwell. I cant punt a car sideways and wall are too close and too narrow and Morwell. So Calder seems the better bet at this stage:)

And i think a graphite colour with the std wheels looks bets. Black too dark, and white doesnt suit the style of the wheel. Or just spend the money on some King/Whitelien springs and the thin will look just fine and handle a bit better:)

foz... there were, before the 15 year rule change many guys here who have a japanese contact who buys cars, they import them and sell them off here for a profit... he included compliance and road worthy in his price.

ahhh i seee, thanks sam.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...