Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is strongly not recommended to run your car hard until it's up to proper operating temperature.

I know with my kart racing that we shouldn't push it hard until the temp. is up as the piston will obviously be revving hard causing friction and in turn heat. When something heats up it expands, if the piston/ring expand and the cylinder doesn't (because it's in the process of warming the coolant/water around the cylinder) then it can cause the engine to brake.

Even though you have oil lubricating the parts, if something is heating/expanding at a different rate to another part it causes problems.

Espectually with turbos, as the compressor/turbine wheel heat up and expand, the turbo housing must expand with it.

It's like when in bed with a girl, if you put something fat and hard into...... u get the point :)

Yep, you need to work gently her to get her up to operating temperature.

If you don't then the lube won't be doing its job and you will chew out her lumps. :)

Water temp is irrelevant, once water temp is up to operating temp you then have to wait approx 7mins for the oil to come up to operating temp.

So if the Skyline is running correctly this will be around 10mins of driving.

Mine takes 2-3mins for the water temp to come up.

And dont forget that even if you warm up the engine's temps to operating range while stationary (eg in the morning), your gearbox wouldn't have had the chance to warm up and would need a few mins to catch up.

No never rev it till it's reached operating temp.

But hey if you do and u blow the motor which u will, I can find u a buyer who will take it off ur hands for cheap.

PS: I bought my gtst off a p plater who did exactly that, I snapped it up for real cheap :(

Especially if you run forged piston's, these are ment to be warmed up properly as they expand and contract in the cylinder, You can hear it when the car is cold if you try and rev over 3k it doesnt sound all their.

This is the same when you are running in you'r new forged piston engine, too much RPM = boost = air blowing past rings cause not run in properly.

As other's have said you'r just asking for trouble.

I dunno about no >2500RPM for 10 mins, there's no way I'd spend that long that low with my RB20DET, i'd never get anywhere! ;)

For me i just pay attention to how "hard" i drive it rather than keeping it below a set Revs amount, I'll rev up to 3500RPM odd but do it smoothly, no sharp acceleration or hard launches, until it gets warm! :(

exactly, if you keep it under boost it means your not gonna be pulling silly revs anyway.

by the way why would you want to drive your car hard when the water temp is cool? If you do boost it around when cold, the water temp will come up super fast anyways.

As for your 60 degree running temperature due to a better cooling system, what happened to your thermostat?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...