Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey adrian, how does it go? it just looks stock from the outside yeh?  i heard of it but never actually knew which one it was, maybe i seen it before...

ben...

Looks stock as a rock.

I am hunting for the pics as we speak.

Adrian

just because it might not work doesnt mean its a photochop.

they could have built it just as a show peice its not in a car

oh and btw its a Blitz job

the turbos are KKK ones

the above picture is definately a photochopped fake. think about the pressurised flow direction through the turbos and blower. it simply would not work.

explain why and you may be forgiven.

it is not a photo chop to my knowlegde and i dont know if it was built to work or not the question of the thread was (Has anyone got that photo of the supercharged twin turbo RB26?) so i delivered.

There is a dark grey R32 GTR (RB26DETTS) in the gong.  I have photos of the engine bay somewhere if you like.

Adrian

No 5hit!

I seen this guy out my way heaps , even last night, pulled up next to him @ the servo... & u would never think his car is tts? is it..

i was going to talk to him, but he looked real cranky or grumpy, plus he was leaving anyways, maybe next time..

i was in my commo, but few weeks ago, i tried giving him a run, & nothin, i just left him! ? He gave it a bit, but nothing noticeable, & quiet as a mouse!

there are two inlets to the intercooler, one from each turbo. (duh?)

if the blower outlet joined into the two turbo outlets as it appears to, then as soon as the turbo outlet pressure got above the blower's outlet pressure it would try to reverse the direction of the vanes and most likely destroy the blower. certainly it would destroy it if the pressure difference was large, as it most likely would be with turbos of that size. unless there is some extremely tricky pressure switching device under the piping somewhere which is used to switch from blower to turbo only at a certain boost level then it's definately fake. it simply wouldn't work.

there does not appear to be any room for such a device in the picture. also the turbo outlet pipes would have to be pressure equalised somewhere before the solenoid switch, there is no evidence of that either.

If it is real, then it would only be for display purposes, as it will not function for a number of reasons, most of which have been given by StockyMcStock. I would think that a teeth belt-driven pulley arrangement would be used, not a v-belt one.

If it is real, then it would only be for display purposes, as it will not function for a number of reasons, most of which have been given by StockyMcStock. I would think that a teeth belt-driven pulley arrangement would be used, not a v-belt one.

i never said it ran nor did i say it ever had i just provided a picture.:slap:

why doesnt anybody else look for it

There have been plenty of engines which have been turbo charged and supercharged.

I remember reading about a Corolla a few years back like this.

The Supercharger is probably on a clutch arrangement on the front pulley, and being screw type, would be able to be closed when the rotors aren't spinning.

BASS OUT

NXTIME :) its all good

There have been plenty of engines which have been turbo charged and supercharged.

I remember reading about a Corolla a few years back like this.

The Supercharger is probably on a clutch arrangement on the front pulley, and being screw type, would be able to be closed when the rotors aren't spinning.

BASS OUT

:werd:

there is also the factory built Nissan March Super Turbo

Issue number 48 of HPI explaines how they use a butterfly valve to block one side so it runs kind of sequential. at different stages its an alright read but you cant really see where the pipes go and if they join up from the pic..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
×
×
  • Create New...