Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi juts looking for some advise.Ihave a r33 gts25t I have a 3" exhaust from the turbo bak,high flow filter,blow of valve,boost controller with boost risen to 12 pound.What would be the best thing to mod next.Would internals be a good idea like cams and pistons or bigger turbo and cooler? thanx for any help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/
Share on other sites

Probably best to lurk your way around the general or forced induction sections and get feel for what your looking for first. There is alot of technical knowledge in there for beginners like yourself and you will learn alot.

The cooler would probably be the next step followed by some kind of engine/fuel management (powerfc, safc, etc, etc) then you go to the manifolds and or new turbo. With all that, if you do it right, you should be able to double your power from stock. Internal work is for serious budgets and serious power (or exploded engines) :)

Hopefully that gives you somewhere to start but i still suggest having a look in the tech sections. Do a search if you want to research something specific.

Everyone has their own opinion best to make ure own mind up.

Oh and welcome to da forums

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1234695
Share on other sites

like boostzor said....

look at getting a front mount and or some engine management.

if your not looking for huge power but a fast car (about 13.2 for 1/4 and ~270ish rwhp) then go for the safc and the fmic and maybe upgrade to an ebc if you have a bleed valve....

but there is plenty of info already on the forum in the search area :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1235292
Share on other sites

first make sure your fuel pump is running ok - if it isnt it can cause major problems e.g pinging.

Do FMIC 1st, you can buy a trust kit from $800 now (on specail at greenline and negun) or else get a hybrid cooler (they sell from around $250 to $400) and then get the piping made up for you (cost is around $600-$700); then go safc 2 or PFC, I would go PFC as it is a complete ecu and then you do have to sell the safc2 down the track and then buy a pfc and buy for my tuning time.

also good to invest in a heavy duty clutch if you dont have one already :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1236279
Share on other sites

But cooler is soo shiny :rofl:

And you have to tune up a new safc or pfc so may as well do it with the cooler in so u dont havet ot do it again down the track. Sure its prolly gonna suck it down but they should be done pretty close together anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1236594
Share on other sites

powerfc and a fmic

:werd:

Looking at $3K total (including dyno tuning) but so much better than anything else you can do to your car as a stage 1/2 before you step up to replacing turbo's, injectors, surge tanks, regulators, wastegates, etc etc....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1237660
Share on other sites

How much would a safc cost????????

Am looking at getting this & a fmic once I have sold my car I have now. Should have my 'line within 3 weeks max.

Oh yeah, what are some of your opinions about front mounts???? Some people say that paying more for the recognized brands or Japanese brands (ape int., trust, HKS etc), dosen't really give you any advantage over some of the kinds you can pick up over here.

I just don't want to pay over the odds when I get one, what sort of prices will I be looking at for a fmic?? (buying, piping, fitted etc) Any advice would be tops, :) .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66219-mod-help/#findComment-1245016
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...