Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Add me to the list!

Last week I finally made a purchase – R34 GTT (from Japan/Auction).

Now it’s time to wait for shipping, compliance, etc. Fingers crossed for no hassles.

I’ve been waiting for 2 years… it’s finally happening!

I’ll be following in the steps – exhaust, pod, etc

My big question is INSURANCE.

I’ve looked on this site and got LOADS of different advice.

** I’ve only looking for R34 GTT Owners – preferably South/East QLD.

If you are willing to share your details, can I find out,

1) Insurance Company

2) Approx cost

3) Any policy details (special requirements, etc)

4) Your age

5) Approx location (Bris - North, south, east, west, North/South Coast, etc)

6) Rating

7) Are they ok with basic mods? extra cost?

ANY of the above info would be great! sorry for so many questions!

Thanks for your time,

PEAR

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mines the Manual Coupe, I'm 21, living in the Carindale area and I'm with Just Car - $1998 a year with about $800 excess on any basic claim. The car can be modified as much as I like as long as the car audio gear is <$2000 and its roadworthy. The car is for the agreed value of $33000.

Hi Guys,

Add me to the list!

Last week I finally made a purchase – R34 GTT (from Japan/Auction).

Now it’s time to wait for shipping, compliance, etc. Fingers crossed for no hassles.

I’ve been waiting for 2 years… it’s finally happening!

I’ll be following in the steps – exhaust, pod, etc

My big question is INSURANCE.

I’ve looked on this site and got LOADS of different advice.

** I’ve only looking for R34 GTT Owners – preferably South/East QLD.

If you are willing to share your details, can I find out,

1)  Insurance Company

2)  Approx cost

3)  Any policy details (special requirements, etc)  

4)  Your age

5)  Approx location (Bris - North, south, east, west, North/South Coast, etc)

6)  Rating  

7)  Are they ok with basic mods? extra cost?

ANY of the above info would be great! sorry for so many questions!

Thanks for your time,

PEAR

This is the first photo... Can't wait to get it here!

12768SKYLINE_F-_L-med.jpg

As per our discussions last night, I've asked my cousin in NZ to go to the Dealership where I saw R34's about 4 years ago and ask how much service/owners manuals are. Once I get prices and check availability, I'll post it on this thread and we can get orders. I'm meeting him in 2 weeks so delivery here may be fairly quick.

This is the first photo... Can't wait to get it here!

12768SKYLINE_F-_L-med.jpg

hmmmmmmmmm,, another bayside blue GTT in brisy,,, DAMN!!,, i mean,,, yayyyy, hehehehe,,, welcome to team BAYSIDE :)

whats the specs on the car dude???...

here is mine,,

Hey Damien. I'm up for one of those manuals.

Let me know.

As per our discussions last night, I've asked my cousin in NZ to go to the Dealership where I saw R34's about 4 years ago and ask how much service/owners manuals are.  Once I get prices and check availability, I'll post it on this thread and we can get orders.  I'm meeting him in 2 weeks so delivery here may be fairly quick.
As per our discussions last night, I've asked my cousin in NZ to go to the Dealership where I saw R34's about 4 years ago and ask how much service/owners manuals are.  Once I get prices and check availability, I'll post it on this thread and we can get orders.  I'm meeting him in 2 weeks so delivery here may be fairly quick.

I've been told that a NZ company has translated the Jap R34 Manual.

I know someone in Bris that had a copy. I'll check it out and let you know.

Also, Thanks for the comments on the Bayside and the Insuranace info!

Will send more details on the car when I have them...

so far, R34 GTT Series I - Year 2000, 4 - grade 4 - stock, with a few minor scratched, etc.

PEAR

Nice Bayside, should have my silver sedan on the road late April.

I'm 30 Rating 1 with Just Cars $955 with min 2 point immobiliser needed, Brisbane Northside as Choyda said for mods.

Zymotic, that's the BEST deal so far, can anyone better $955?

How do you find Just Cars? Ok to deal with?

Nice looking sedan! I'm sure late April can't come soon enough! good luck!

Choyda, thanks for the info - sorry to hear that you are stuck with $1998!

Better than $955 anyone?

Just cars seemed ok over the phone but you might wanna find someone who has made a claim to see how it all went.

2 biggest factors seem to be rating/accident history (or lack of) and age of youngest driver.

30rys old seems to be a magic number where things get a fair bit cheaper provided rating is good.

Just Cars were fine with me during a claim...someone reversed into my front bar and damaged it, they tried to drive off but I got their drivers licence number (through force)

The guy supplied a dodgey phone number etc etc, but the claim went fine because I had his correct licence details :(

The car was fixed all within 2 weeks.

I'm 25, rating 1, agreed value of $29,000, a few mods, paying $1100...the next bill should be under $1000 though

wow,, 2004 model,, thats pratically brand new dude,,,

how many kms if u don't mind me asking?

i'm with just cars too and pay $1600, thats the best i could find at the time,, i.e 1 yr ago,, but will be looking around in a few months when its time to renew,,

wow,,  2004 model,, thats pratically brand new dude,,,

how many kms if u don't mind me asking?

i'm with just cars too and pay $1600, thats the best i could find at the time,, i.e 1 yr ago,,  but will be looking around in a few months when its time to renew,,

Shit, typo sorry!!

Year 2000 - 4th month. Kms are on the high side 70 odd..

PEAR

The car can be modified as much as I like as long as the car audio gear is <$2000 and its roadworthy.  The car is for the agreed value of $33000.

I think this part of the post is most crucial. If they can deem the mods you've done to be un-roadworthy, I'm sure they'd refuse cover.

A boost controller is illegal (apparently). Any turbo besides stock is illegal without a modification plate. Tinted windows beyond legal tint are illegal.

I just read that post by Choy and had alarm bells ringing in my head. I'm sure an insurance company would try anything to not cover you and keep the premiums.

Just my 2c.

I think this part of the post is most crucial. If they can deem the mods you've done to be un-roadworthy, I'm sure they'd refuse cover.  

A boost controller is illegal (apparently). Any turbo besides stock is illegal without a modification plate. Tinted windows beyond legal tint are illegal.  

I just read that post by Choy and had alarm bells ringing in my head. I'm sure an insurance company would try anything to not cover you and keep the premiums.  

Just my 2c.

:werd: in fact it would probably branch even further than that. Im quite sure it states in just cars policy that you must list EVERY single modification to your car....that would include such things as pod filters etc and if these were deemed to be illegal im sure they'd try to get off on such a lame excuse. Keep in mind people that almost any modification is illegal without a mod plate, so be careful in thinking your covered when in fact you may not be.

matt

I'm sure an insurance company would try anything to not cover you and keep the premiums.

 

  Just my 2c.

This gives me the shits, if they are taking premiums for a modded vehicle and you have the mods listed with them, you have an accident and then they turn around and say we are not covering you because you have these mods, then surely you would have recourse to claim the premiums you have paid back, as they obviously had no intention of covering your vehicle in the first place, so therefore they have been getting you to pay premiums for coverage under false pretences.

Matt.... what do you reckon, lawyer boy???/??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...