Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

']im well aware that they are pnp for the car they are made for, sk was saying that to make it pnp on nicks car, he would have to change a few things... thats no longer pnp is it

SK didnt say thats what you have to do to make it Plug and Play, he said thats the 'method' you have to use to make it work.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I looked into the r32 loom, theyre at a premium due to their repective ecu being able to be chipped, the few i did find had people asking ridiculous prices Certainly isnt a plug and play when you have to change looms, Esp when plugs need to be changed etc.

Nismoid, playing with a wiring loom is far from being 'just a few wires' its a godamn headache. Yet again please post or have those who have 'switched' looms post here.

Something to keep in mind is that if you have an R32 or car with a similar chipable ECU is just getting it re-tuned with a custom chip. If I remember correctly the factory ecu is at least as good as a PFC in terms of drivability.

This is probably only good for people like me who only intend to get the car tuned once or maybe twice but then again there are a lot of us who dont need to constantly retune the car.

I looked into the r32 loom, theyre at a premium due to their repective ecu being able to be chipped, the few i did find had people asking ridiculous prices  Certainly isnt a plug and play when you have to change looms, Esp when plugs need to be changed etc.  

Nismoid, playing with a wiring loom is far from being 'just a few wires'  its a godamn headache.  Yet again please post or have those who have 'switched' looms post here.

not getting a whole 32 loom.

playing with the existing one which is a few wires in terms of how many there are.

If people can get a 32 silver ECU to go on a red-top without too much hassle then it cant be hard or cost mega $$$

Getting back to Link ECU's, had on for bout 4 years. Had it on a manual 33 and auto 33. I have no problem admitting that i feel shattered, its been a ball breaker over the years to fine someone who can tune it. On both Manual and auto theres no bottom end, stalling the auto is gone revs stop going up after 1100rpm.

The problem lies in the tuning or lack of it available, i have taken it out and has been sitting on my shelf for over a year....actually if anyones interested i'll sell the focker, map sensor included obvisiously. So this from someone who has experienced it rather than debating wether its any good or not. Believe me, avoid the Link...damn just botched any chance of me selling it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...