Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im stuck big time

ive got a 32 gtr, avcr, exhaust, and filters.

with the avcr, it spikes like a fking cactus, i have 2 settings, .7 bar, and .9 bar. Both never drop below .9 bar, but in the menus it says .7 for A and .9 for B... wtf? neways the major problem is the fact that im getting .9 in 3rd 4th and 5th, but in 1st it ranges from 1.2 bar right up to 1.49 bar being the highest i have seen......yes it fkn scared me too as far as i know i have stock turbos.

so does ne1 know what i can do with it ?? is there any settings, duty cycles, gear judge, nething at all that u guys know of that i can use to correct it ?

any help at all would be great thanks every1, if any1 has a gtr and using an avcr, can u please pm me that would be great !

thanks in advance

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66656-big-problemavcr-spiking/
Share on other sites

hi mate,

If you turn the AVCR off (as in not setting A or B) what does it read? my understanding is it should read 0.7bar (mine does), might prove it is hooked up properly

I also run it with 0.9bar, i will check what my cycles are for you when i get a chance

no, my understanding is it should stop at the factory boost level (.. mine certainly does.. and there is no sign of the original boost actuator in the engine bay (the car came with mine)

hopefully someone here can confirm for you, but it certainly is on mine :D

the way i would think it works is the controller keeps the wastegate open for longer periods of time (to make more boost), when the controller is off, then the normal pressure would apply (which the wastegate is set to 0.7)???

I fyou have the usual breathing mods then you will naturally see a small boost hike. So turn the thing to "Off" ... ti wont blow anything. the car will drive at whatever your lowest boost setting is.

I guess with exhaust etc you could be running as high as 12-13psi , if the restricot has been removed then you will actually be running 1 bar. So its not your AVCR thats spiking.

So lets assuem that with the theing in "off" it reads 0.85bar. You will never be able to run 0.7bar. Its impossible.

So lets say you want your settings to then be 0.90bar (A) and 1.0 bar (B). Set "A" to 0.90bar and duty to about 20. The thing will hold boost and afetr a few hits it will start to learn...which bring me to the next question. Who installed your AVCR? There are two variations on the install. Easiest way to identify is if your injector readins make sense or not. If they look a bit screwy then the thing should self learn a lot quicker.

For "B" set it to 1.0bar and again start duty cylce around 25, if you fall a bit short of makign 1.0bar then try a duty of arounf 28-30.

if your car was an R32 GTST i could tell you how to set it up easy, but id suspect GTR would be a little difference with regards to the duty setting.

But first things first. turn it "off: and give it a good hit in 3rd and 4th gear and see what your peak recall is for boost

The AVC-R is an amazingly powerful EBC, download the manual and read it, many times, from what you are talking about here, ti seems that your Gear based Feedback is set incorrectly and your gear based initial duty cycle is also incorrect.. These are critical elements in tuning your AVC-R properly, I spent some hours and lots of fuel tuning my AVC-R on my 180, tuning on a quiet road (lots of quiet straigh road up here.)

Basically if your feedback setting is too fast or slow in high gears the AVC-R will do one of three things, fluctuate rapidly, drop boost, increase boost. The effect that you get is also dependent on the Duty cyle of the RPM based settings..

Here is the process that I found best to tune my AVC-R: (may or may not work for you)

  1. Set the intended boost pressure at about 0.2 kg/cm above your wastegate actuator level
  2. Using the process from the manual, get the AVC-R into learn mode and drive around until it can hold the boost pretty closely.
  3. Pick a gear to tune the start off with and stick with it (2nd gear is good)
  4. Set the gear based initial duty cycle to a figure where it doesn't spike coming onto boost
  5. Set the gear based feedback to a level where it holds boost through to red line (or theoretical max).. Tuning too high or low will exhibit strange results, this can take some time. This is also a broad range setting so get it as best you can
  6. Adjust the gear based initial duty cycle so that boost comes in as early as possible without any spiking (this is always fun..)
  7. Go back to RPM based duty cycle and iron out the dips and peaks, the AVC-R will actually do this itself in Fuzzy logic mode if you have gear based learning turned on, but it is slow to do so.
  8. Tune the next gear in a similar fashion to above..
  9. After each gear is tuned you will notice that the numbers in the Gear based feedback settings follow a pattern, this is where the speed of your actuator is coming into play..

All of the functions int eh AVC-R are there for a reason, the fuzzy logic has boundaries, some of which I find to be a little restrictive, but considering that the unit needs to be able to go into "anyones" vehicle they have cut it down far enough.. In the cases where the self learning doesn't work quick enough or doesn't adjust far enough, it needs to be helped along the way with some manual intervention..

If you can read and understand the manual and what each function does than the AVC-R is a perfect EBC for you, if you don't understand it, take it somewhere and have it professionally tuned..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...