Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy, i finally after 9 months of looking and bidding i got my bayside blue r34 GTT, and it is about to get on a boat in japan woohoo

Anyway

as you all know the car will be stock when i get it. It will have a nissan sports kit (correction) already on it and thats about it

I would like recommendations on 2 things:

1. What are the first 5-10 modifications you would do to the car (not including rims), and in which order.

2. and of those what brands/ models would you go for.

i already have some ideas in mind for mods but just want to get some extra input

Cheers

Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

Woohoo,, another bayside blue!!! well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar :)

what yr is yours? mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,, congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour :rofl:

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

Mine is silver

Love the blue though.

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)

3. frount mount intercooler.

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

For more power -

1 - Full turbo back exhaust

2 - Better turbo (either stocker re-cored or HKS etc) turnedwith a Z32 AFM

3 - Fueling (pump & injectors) and PowerFC to map the new stuff

4 - Cooling (FMIC/Oil Cooler/Radiator)

5 - Clutch (stock R33GTR one can be used)

But I'd add better suspension and brakes TBH as well.

Woohoo,,  another bayside blue!!!  well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar  :(

what yr is yours?  mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,,  congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour  :)

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

mine is a 2001 stock as grade 5 outside and A inside, cost me about, well enough over 40 once complianced its got 46000KM's on it i wanted less but you can't be picky if you want a blue , but then a 31000 km one came up 4 days later dammit worse condition though.

Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

CHeers for that i am intending to do full exhaust first followed by FMIC and power FC. then see what is up any recommendations on brand, i was thinking custom exhaust though

Mine is silver  

Love the blue though.  

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)  

3. frount mount intercooler.  

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.  

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

yeah i have HPI vol 3 and i saw the end now i just have to get the rest to see what they got up to. Problem i have is finding suppliers for such goods as tassie bites for bits so i will have to order online. any ideas where?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...