Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hehe...

ok for a start... its for a mates car.... RB25??? pft... if it were me id be goin RB26!

yea... so anyways... i aint spending the money Andy, its a mates car.. he is spending the money.. not me! so ner!

Ill give trojan a call, but is there anywhere else to compare prices and all???

Thanx guys.

But on the other topic... Ill buy your car Richard... or trade.. and you can match it with a bit extra cash... :wassup: :):D:D:D

Congratulations Leigh, You made the top of my list.

All the others have been previously removed.

 

I will deliver your prize.

:kewl:

(personally!)

 

Mwahahahaha!

lol sinista come on tridentt still has to be on top :) one comment from me and i make the top oh well i am feeling the love at least :) haha

All I can say is, Ed quoted me on a few things like swapping turbos etc.. and I was taken back.. so much so that I decided to do it my slef.... Man... I know hwy it cost's a bit, changing the turbos on a GTR is one ****ing anoying job, and not one I'll rush into doing again. And yeah I belive he is fairly priced, but you are paying for experiance and the ability to drive in... drive out.. dont even have to clean your hands, thats a pretty big deal.

If you have the means to do it your self (and the time) I say go for it, it definatly saves money, but be prepared to be with out a car for a few months and have lots of band aids available, be prepared for pain and frustration.... taking an engine out is no easy feat, the concept is simple, unbolt pull out, put in, bolt up, but there is alot more to the application..

If you have the means to pay some one to the the job in several days, Pay it!

Ed's work is top notch! and he is a top, bloke, you get what you pay for!

Trojan are also a good work shop and reasonable priced, I dont know the guys there, but I do know Ed very well. Have known him for 4-5 years, out side of the whole car scene, He will give you no end of help!

Good luck with you decision.!

Cheers

Stirlo!

hehe...

ok for a start... its for a mates car....  RB25??? pft... if it were me id be goin RB26!

yea... so anyways... i aint spending the money Andy, its a mates car.. he is spending the money.. not me! so ner!

Still doesn't answer the question.... what's the conversion?

well depends on how much your mate is wanting to spend... if he has an endless budget then tell him Signal Auto in japan do a great job, lol. i dont know many places in canberra i thought only ed but maybe try looking for places in syd? and yes knowing what conversion he is going for would sure help....

thanx all...

if it was the RB to an RB in my car id would be doin it...

BUt its a mates lancer... i dont relly want to say much more about it, as i dont really have his permission, and i dont think he wants it let out... if you know what i mean..

Ed was ment to to the conversion within the last week or so, but has now decided it cant be done for another 2 months... thats y were just after another place to go.

Trojan just finished a heap of conversions and they all looked very neat and tidy to me. You havent even told us what the conversion is and to what etc... But yeah i'd see trojan.

They were cai18 to rb20 and an rb25 in 180's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...