Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have had an ever increasing number of people ask me about tuning their car without going to a dyno. They may live too far away, not have the budget or they simply may want to do it themselves. I have accumulated a few A/F ratio meters over time. I thought to help guys out, I might rent a couple of them out. They are not too expensive to buy, but the maintenance can be relatively high, you have to clean the lambda sensor and perform calibration regularly.

So......

How many would be interested in renting one for a week for say $100? That would cover maintenance and repairs etc. What you would get is;

*a wide band lambda sensor

*long lead to reach to the tail pipe

*a clamp for holding the lambda sensor in the tail pipe

*a meter and controller with sensor preheating for accuracy

*a mount and vacuum cup for attaching the display to the windscreen

*a cigarette lighter power plug & supply

*a full set of intructions

*a laptop interface and logging software to load (not necessary for tuning)

*all mailed out to you in an aluminium case

What you don't get;

*you are doing the tuning, if you damage your engine it's your problem

*if you get busted breaking the road rules, it's your problem

*I don't have time for dial up support, maybe email would be OK though

*insurance, if you break it or loose it, you pay for it

*a lap top, you supply your own, if you want to do logging

*credit, you pay up front and there will be a deposit (not sure how much yet)

*freight, you have to pay both ways, it's light, so $10 should cover almost anywhere in Oz

*instant supply, I only have 2 suitable units and I don't want to buy more. So you may have to wait until one becomes available

*to use leaded fuel, it must be unleaded

* to send it back dirty and greasy, clean it please

*your deposit refunded until it is received in good condition

This is a survey for me to judge the response, so post away. If I get enough interest I will be ready to go in about 3 weeks, as I would have to clean, service and calibrate the 2 units.

Awsome Idea,

I was charged $50 for 15mins of driving up and down the road I was not impressed I didn't get to load it up in top gears only 2nd gear.

Have you got any Second Hand/New ForSale ?

:P

Nat

If its a brand name unit such as the Autronic model, they are expensive, i say make people leave a deposit of $500 bare minimum, just incase something happens.

Because you know what people are like, hopeless.....

If you have a quality unit for hire now, i will hire it immediately.

$100 is a fair price for a week, + return freight/post to you.

You can get some preety good wide band units off the net now for around $500-$600 with controller, which is a great price if you want to tune your own cars.

Let us know either way.

Cheers

sounds like a very good idea :cheers:

Yep, I know it's a good idea, but how many people would actually rent one for a week for $100? That's the question, if I get enough I will do it. We can then start a thread on people's experiences with tuning on road and the results they get. Should make a good reference for others.

I need a few more to make it worthwhile, so let me know:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...