Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, car is going in for the wheel alinement / changing settings on tuesday.

Throughout my other topics we have worked out...

Small amount of camber, say 1*

As much castor as posible say 7-8*

And just a tad of toe in.

But, if this doesnt help my turns, what the hell will?

I was told today by the suspension joint, that my problem could be not enough weight transfer over the front wheels. Their susgestion of fixing this was change to a lighter front spring. My question is if we say lower the front, and or raise the rear of the car, would this potentially help this? Or other susgestions.

I also know my front tyres arent the best, this obviously isnt helping the problem.

BTW, atm its bad for understeer. The car is still rather stiff, has the 2way diff, and on a corner of about 80kmh, if I push it a bit, the rear stays stuck, and the front just does not turn.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67050-suspension-set-up-again/
Share on other sites

Interesting, definately the diff won't be helping. Ideally for handling (not the drift bastardised version of handling) you want a 1 or 1.5 way diff so that under brakes the inside wheel is not locking up to the outside wheel.

Do you have uprated anti roll bars? they can give you more front end grip (rear roll bar)

Which tyres and which size are you running on the front? A lot of skyline owners seem to think it is an oversteerer....no way....it is pretty balanced but ultimately an understeerer.

Weight transfer really only helps under brakes to keep plenty of weight over the wheels with the big brakes (front)

The Kumo esticita or whatever they are ones. 17/215/45s. Front.

Then the rear is GIIIs 17/225/45. Rear.

350lb front springs, 200lb rears.

And, no aftermarket sway bars, the car is already pretty tight with that, just its a lot of oversteer.

I also have spacers on, only because the wheels wont clear the brakes, and well, it came that way from Japan.

It really is a strange one. Im thinking there might be more to do with it, such as the bloke the rebuilt the shocks did something strange with the faster bump and rebound settings (if there is such a thing on a road going coilover).

Everyone one seems to have the same advice with anything on my car...  "my air con doesnt work"

"oh must be the diff, I'll take it off your hands!"

I dont belive you! :)

You're no fun.

But seriously, ask too much boost what a difference removing the 2 way in his cef made to his steering.

You're no fun.

But seriously, ask too much boost what a difference removing the 2 way in his cef made to his steering.

I know the 2way isnt helping, but I just dont think its the underlying problem, and a wheel alinement is a hell of a lot cheaper than trying to sell a 2way and find a 1.5way.

where are you getting your alignment done mate??? I need one but no idea where to go in Brisbane:p Thanks

Im going to TSR only because of a stuffed rear shock, and yeah...

Other wise Id be going to accurate suspension in Timms Court. They also have the balancing scales there. But from what I have heard from others you really have to tell them what you want. Not sure tho, havent been there as yet.

Both are round Springwood/Slacks Creek area.

Ok, car is going in for the wheel alinement / changing settings on tuesday.

Throughout my other topics we have worked out...

Small amount of camber, say 1*

As much castor as posible say 7-8*

And just a tad of toe in.

But, if this doesnt help my turns, what the hell will?

I was told today by the suspension joint, that my problem could be not enough weight transfer over the front wheels.  Their susgestion of fixing this was change to a lighter front spring.  My question is if we say lower the front, and or raise the rear of the car, would this potentially help this?  Or other susgestions.

I also know my front tyres arent the best, this obviously isnt helping the problem.

BTW, atm its bad for understeer.  The car is still rather stiff, has the 2way diff, and on a corner of about 80kmh, if

I push it a bit, the rear stays stuck, and the front just does not turn.

I would change the "just a tad of toe in" to "just a tad of toe out". After you have had the wheel alignment done then tell us what it handles like.

Personally I would swap the tyres around and see exactly how much effect they are having.:D

Its already got toe out, and Im fighting with it constanly on the highway.

If that's the case then either you have too much toe out (just a "tad" remember) or there is something else wrong. I have never seen up to 3mm toe out (that's each side) cause any issues on the highway.

And unfortunatly I cant swap the tyres...  the sizes are just too different.

How much is "too different"? I swap 255/40/17 and 225/50/16 around all the time.

:(

Ok, new fronts are going on, one has worn really badly. So they shall go on thursday, then wheel alinement will get done the week after now because off easter holidays.

I'll update it again then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...