Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i own a 33 gts (NA), and have planned a brake upgrade to:

- pair of dba standard replacement slotted rotors for a 32 gtst (drilled for 4 stud)

- pair of 32 gtst 4 pot calipers

for the front.

now i want a set of dba4000 for the front, and was wondering if the rotors

(the ones i were originally going to put on the front) can be rear rotors or would they be too big? (ie. fitment with 32 gtst or 33 gtst twin pot calipers)

i am not keen for any serious customization, except for redrilling stud pattern of

course, and would pretty much want a in and out type job.

can anyone shed some light on wether front rotors can be used as rears?

cheers

eugene

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67086-questions-about-rotor-upgrade/
Share on other sites

appreciate the answer gordon, but what do u mean exactly by the center part coming out

futhur? do u mean the hub??

cos the way i see it is wudnt the rotor just sit where the studs of where the original one was?

I've just been chatting over this over msn :D but for everybody else..  

first pic is the rear.. 2nd pic is the front. .

see the different width of the center piece.

yup... thanks for that gordon.

much appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...