Jump to content
SAU Community

D Day April 16th @ Autotech

cammaS15

By cammaS15,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

Fox, Frink and I will be working on the vids on Friday... We might chop up some small ones and post them here but thats really up to FoX not me, hes the one with all the cool software.

Footage is really good we watched it yesterday, should be a great DVD

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted

im debating whether or not to put the dyno day on one DVD then another event on another DVD, or if we should cram it all together on one DVD? maybe we'll do both.

we need to get shirts made up that say SAU Film Crew, or SAU Media. he he

  • 2 months later...
Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted

And now to dig up an old thread.....

Mick (R31DET), Luke (Frink) and I have been working on the video footage, and as I promised Jayce earlier tonight at trivia, here is a snippet from it.

It's a section from the very beginning of the film, Leech's first power run (not giving away the result for those that don't know what it was).

http://members.iinet.net.au/~bluprint/Leech1.wmv

We're going to continue on it until it's done, hopefully shouldn't be too much longer.

Sorry about the wait so far.

leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

YOU DA MAN Mark, Mick and luke. And looking at that video that seems to indicate that my car is not capped to the 180km going off the fact that it was well over the top of my speedo... interesting very interesting superfly i can race you guys now hehe

Leigh

And now to dig up an old thread.....

 

Mick (R31DET), Luke (Frink) and I have been working on the video footage, and as I promised Jayce earlier tonight at trivia, here is a snippet from it.

 

It's a section from the very beginning of the film, Leech's first power run (not giving away the result for those that don't know what it was).

 

http://members.iinet.net.au/~bluprint/Leech1.wmv

 

We're going to continue on it until it's done, hopefully shouldn't be too much longer.

 

Sorry about the wait so far.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
YOU DA MAN Mark, Mick and luke. And looking at that video that seems to indicate that my car is not capped to the 180km going off the fact that it was well over the top of my speedo... interesting very interesting superfly i can race you guys now hehe

Leigh

Good point, someones either cut the wire or aftermarket/chipped ecu. Pull the passanger footwell kickpanel off and see if theres a pretty sticker on it.

Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted
Good point, someones either cut the wire or aftermarket/chipped ecu. Pull the passanger footwell kickpanel off and see if theres a pretty sticker on it.

Given that the car is supposed to be a stock series 2 R33, the lack of a speed limiter (and rev limiter?), and most importantly the power output that it produced, especially on it's second run, I'd quite confidently lean towards the idea that the ECU has been tinkered with somewhat

leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

hmm interesting we pulled off the kick panel to rig up the wire for the afr gauge and it looked stock to me. Maybe i might have to have another look at it ??? off the top of your head do you know which wire i should be looking for that is the speed limit cut off. Also mark the rev limiter is still in place as it hits the cut at i think at either 7,500rpm - 8000rpm but woot as i said i had never taken it above 170 so to see it do that is a good sign that

it can cope with a bit more boost, getting to the rev limiter and by the looks of it around 200 - 205km's

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
so to see it do that is a good sign that it can cope with a bit more boost

I wouldnt be too confident on that. Most jap 'fiddled' ecu's are fine for stock boost levels on our shitty fuel, but they crank massive amounts of ignition timing into them for standard boost (which in turn, makes them more responsive and make lots of power). As soon as you wind the boost up, added with the way-to-advanced ignition timing, you'll end up with a dead engine. Or at least thats how it works with alot of aftermarket GTR computers. Before winding boost up id get it on a dyno to have AFR's and ignition timing checked, and make sure the tuner has det ears on to hear if theres any unwanted gremlins in the engine (aka detonation).

I was pretty sure RB25 standard rev limit was 6900rpm? I know RB26 is 8250rpm and the 25 is a good 1000rpm lower than that. Id definately be saying aftermarket computer, but it doesnt make sense with the rest of your car being stock standard... wire #53 is the speed cut wire. Pull the kick panel off, unplug the loom and take the computer out. I wouldnt be suprised to see a pretty Mines sticker or similar on the back of it.

leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted
I wouldnt be too confident on that. Most jap 'fiddled' ecu's are fine for stock boost levels on our shitty fuel, but they crank massive amounts of ignition timing into them for standard boost (which in turn, makes them more responsive and make lots of power). As soon as you wind the boost up, added with the way-to-advanced ignition timing, you'll end up with a dead engine. Or at least thats how it works with alot of aftermarket GTR computers. Before winding boost up id get it on a dyno to have AFR's and ignition timing checked, and make sure the tuner has det ears on to hear if theres any unwanted gremlins in the engine (aka detonation).

I was pretty sure RB25 standard rev limit was 6900rpm? I know RB26 is 8250rpm and the 25 is a good 1000rpm lower than that. Id definately be saying aftermarket computer, but it doesnt make sense with the rest of your car being stock standard... wire #53 is the speed cut wire. Pull the kick panel off, unplug the loom and take the computer out. I wouldnt be suprised to see a pretty Mines sticker or similar on the back of it.

interesting... maybe i am way off or something i dont have the car on me today but when i get home i might do some investigation. also maybe you are right about the rev limiter in terms of being limited to 6900 - 7000rpm personally i still think my car has the stock ecu but i guess we will wait and see.

also in regards to me getting the air/fuel rations checked already had that done on the last dyno run was around 10.5:1 i think it was which was WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY to rich.

ewen do you have your car here today let me go have a look at the tacho :)

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
interesting... maybe i am way off or something i dont have the car on me today but when i get home i might do some investigation. also maybe you are right about the rev limiter in terms of being limited to 6900 - 7000rpm personally i still think my car has the stock ecu but i guess we will wait and see.

also in regards to me getting the air/fuel rations checked already had that done on the last dyno run was around 10.5:1 i think it was which was WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY to rich.

ewen do you have your car here today let me go have a look at the tacho :rofl:

Definately starting to sound like a chipped ECU. Thats what the japs do, advance ignition timing like crazy and make the car run overly rich so it doesnt detonate. Keep in mind though, they use 100RON fuel, we use 98RON. No 180 speed cut definately means speed wire has been cut or the ECU has been modified.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...