Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think you might be lucky.. as it's a day's work, if you know what you are doing, probably 2 if not. It's not something you'd choose to do for 'fun'.

I think v8man is pretty much ob the ball with the list of parts, as I'm just in the process of collecting them myself. He did miss tailshaft though, which is an important one (I paid $150 for my manual shaft)

ECU does not have to be changed, but thats been covered. Auto in manual req eCU change, manual into auto not. It will work anyhow, if there are any issues, change it later.

There is some basic wiring you have to do too with neutral switch and a few other things. I don't think you have to change the cluster.. maybe on R33 as it has the christmas tree auto thing in there. but R32 they are exact same (I have two clusters sitting around).

You will need to change your speedo sender too, for the different ratios - or your speedo will be out.

Does anybody know where you can get the selector fork from and boot? From memory it looks very similar to R31 one (nearly identical sized box).. but i didn't get one with my box :P

For R33 boys you're looking at about $2000 in parts, so it won't be cheap.. There is no place that sells the kits "complete" afaik so you'll have to hunt for a halfcut, wreck, or a wrecker (who will charge you big bickies).

Already for my cheap ass box, and rest of the bits on the R32, it's going to be up around the $1000 mark for the bits.

wasnt aware tailshaft was different....but i was ready for it as a lot of times they are...

catch can ....i can to that tomorrow arv i suppose.....after 4....50 bux it'll cost ya....

i hope you have all the bolts for it...other wise ill have to look thru my box of bolt and i cant guarantee ill have the right ones....

yeah i guess....off the top of my head you will also need hose clamps,,,,,,rather than wast you time...you should come round so i can check it out first, uncase there is more stuff you need to get.....that way it will be straight forward when i do it...

STZ automotive in Northgate are pretty good and they have extensive experience on skylines.

i don't have the number on me at the moment but its in the white pages too.

they are in Landy St Northgate.

they did my silvia rb20det conversion + manual conversion and a few other goodies.

How much was the conversion?

the R32 half cut = $2000

hybrid copy intercooler + piping $530

SR20 front brakes = $100

complete workshop charge (engine, wiring, exhaust hooking up, front brake change, intercooler mounting + manual conversion included) = $1500 - 1600

i get the car back anyday now, (closed for easter)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 14 years later...
On 15/03/2005 at 8:35 AM, V8skylineMAN said:

if you have ALL the required parts im sure i could do the job for you. a lot cheaper that a workshop...but dont get me wrong it'll still cost ya

Hey man I have a 2008 ford falcon bf I was wondering if you would be able to convert it into manual from auto, I live in Brisbane btw 

 

On 15/03/2005 at 8:35 AM, V8skylineMAN said:

if you have ALL the required parts im sure i could do the job for you. a lot cheaper that a workshop...but dont get me wrong it'll still cost ya

Hey man I 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...