Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rb26 is still nearly 1/2 a litre less than Rb30, torque is still gona be a fair bit less.. All 3 boxes i destroyed had stripped 3rd gear, every time it happened i was accellerating hard in 3rd, then BANG.... One decent R33 box is cheaper than several Rb20 boxes.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just curious how would this conversion go in a A31 Cefiro? and gearbox wise i've heard that the best gearbox to use for a cefiro drivetrain conversion is a VLTurbo MX7 gearbox because it runs a cable speedo drive? and out of the MX7 and the R33 which is the better box would they handle alot of power and which one 'feels' the best for those with experience? cheers

do a search for how much they are. (~$1500) You just need one in good nick and it will last. No it wasnt difficult to put in, because i bought the setup out of another r32 (came with tailshaft modded, gearbox mount, and speedo drive modded)

Yes, i was running the rb20det b4.

heard of that. ;) They say because you are driving the car on SA roads, YOU are still responsible for it. They still defect it no matter what....

Nope, Commonwealth/State Law doesn't work that way, if the car is legal in Vic they can't defect it in SA. Take the defect sticker off and post it to them, with a thank you note of course.:D

The R33 gearbox feels alot smoother than the MX7. Most MX7 boxes have got high kms on them, there usually noisy and notchy to shift gears.

I used the stock r32 tailshaft and got a VL turbo yoke (or R33 turbo) welded on the front, overall length was the same.

SAPOL do what they want Gary...they can defect a car with interstate rego, and have done before.

 

Sending them the defect sticker will result in a nice fine as well....

I don't care who they are, they can't issue a defect notice on a car that is legal in the state it is registered in. This was tested many years ago in the Federal Court, Queensland had different registration laws with regard to extra lights. NSW tried to defect the trucks carrying the extra lights (that were legal in Queensland), they lost.

This case (and few others) is the reason why all the States signed the national agreement on common ADR enforcement as provided by DOTARS. SA has broken that agreement, if anyone takes SA to the Federal Court they will win.

A copy of the agreement is availabe under Freedom of Information from DOTARS.

:D

Im on your side Gary...when I get my car finished i'll be taking it interstate to more than one place to have all the ADR tests etc done to make sure its legal....

Ive had a cop on a bike pull up next to me and say "if i hadn't just worked a 13 hour shift, i'd defect you for your blow off valve". Then the lights went green, and he took off (from a right hand turning lane) and pulled infront of me to continue stright down the road.

Now without seeing my enginebay, how did he know i had a blowoff valve? And yes I do still have the STANDARD blowoff valve installed in the car.....WTF!!!

Its a revenue raiser for SA, and things are not going to change here (cops issuing defects) until this state gets WOF checks like other states. Until then they do what they like.....have a read of the regency thread in the SA section to see the BS they have gotten away with...(defecting ADR approved steering wheels etc)

I havent had any trouble with them as of yet (touch wood) but believe me i will be taking it as far as i can if and when the time comes....

/end rant....back on topic :D

Picked up my bottom end today, pretty good score i believe! Its a 1988 R31 bottom end with only 168,000kms! Looks to be in great nick, will start taking it apart soon and giving everything a good clean and inspection. Manged to score it for $150

Finally the journey of the RB30/25 begins! (8/4/05)

I guess we'll see how long it takes but i know that i can't wait to turn over the key!

Now you just need an engine stand. :D

 

I'm heading up my oldies tomorrow, I will grab it.

cool, my mate got his off Ebay but i reckon the one u got is better. Have you thought about a price yet? if so let me know and we can discuss me picking it up or whatever. Will it fit in the back of my 32?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...