Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi to all,

I'm need here, stumbled here when i was searching the net for reviews of the R32 GTS... couldn't find any though. :rofl:

I'm driving a AE92 Seca Corolla at the moment, and i'm thinking of upgrading to a 4 door 32 GTS. Mainly because i'm still a young driver, and reasoning with basic logic, turbo = more air in = more power if more fuel in as well = not a very good fuel econ figure.

I really want a review on the 32 4 door GTS... i really like the look of the 32, and the 4 door because of its practicality... but what are the real world economy figures for the RB20DE hauling a heavy (compared to corolla :cheers:) body? Is it underpowered? Anything R32 GTS owners wanna share?

Thanks heaps for all your replies.

Cheers,

Jon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67627-rb20de-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2278/article.html

You need to pay to get a membership. I bought access to all the back issues (304 issues) for $80. I reckon it was worth it, but it depends how much time you would spend reading an online magazine. I think you can buy just the one issue for like $4 if thats the only article you want to read...

So long as it's the DE not the E then i think you'll enjoy it.

However, 4 doors are already harder to find than coupes, and most R32's are turbos so you're narrowing your options yet again.

Also have you contacted any insurance companies and found out what the price difference between cover for NA and Turbo? In my experience there's not a whole lot, the fact it's a Grey import works against the most, Turbo usually only adds a few hundred to Comprehensive cover and almost nothing to 3rd Party Fire/Theft with little higher excess too.

i'm not really concerned about the insurance point of view, because as u said, its a grey import, therefore the cost is already there; turbo or not it doens't really matter.

I'm concerned about the fuel ecnonomy aspect though, with the turbo... not sure how it would affect fuel economy. And also the weight of the R32 4 door might be an issue too.

if you are buying one, you better do it quick before the 15 year free for all ends, as a 4 door N/A will not qualify as a SEVS vehicle because it dosen't meet power to weight ratio requirements.

As for a GTS, my daily driver is one, great economy, better performance than almost all the other alternatives that are in the same category. RWD, handles well, reliable, can't complain... insurance is only $1200 p/a for full comprehensive as well over 12 monthly payments. Mine's a coupe though, but the 4 doors aren't that far behind.

If i was you i'd just be buying the GTS-T 4 door instead of the GTS 4 door, as they are pretty much the same in fuel economy, it all depends on how hard you drive it, and if you decide later on you want more power, which lets face it, we all do its much easier with the GTS-t

David

whats the widest tire width that could fit on the R32 GTS?

i think the GTS only has 4 studs ... so what would be the optimum size for performance?

as far as i know, for my corolla 1.6; 15" is the best on the track, due to its lower inertia and is wide enough to do the job.

also, is engine transplant a usual scene in the skyline world? In the corolla world, we normally get supercharge frontcuts and transplant the bugger over. Cost around 4K all up. i'm tihnking maybe if i outgrow the GTS... maybe plonk in a RB25DE?

I know first hand a RB26DETT bolts straight up to a RB20DET gearbox, the RB25DET would too, and i would assume it'd do the same with a DE. If you want to go for torqe you can always twin-cam a RB30 with turbos.

If you get the RB20DET out of the box you can push respectable power out of that too, but you're always going to be down on torque compared to other RBs. The other advantage of a DET is if you get a Type-M you've already got some awesome brakes with no need to upgrade unless you're doing a fair bit of track work.

The previous question of rims, I know 9.5" fit on the rears and 8.5" on the front, but you'd struggle to get any more on stock guards, esp. the front.

ic...

thanks for all the info guys.

so now i assume that if i actually get a GTS 4 door, i got a few things against me:

- insurance, since its a grey import, might as well get it turbo

- 4 stud wheels instead of 5

- brakes can still be upgraded

and the pros:

- cheaper

- economical even though u drive like a wanker

- if it gets slow, might as well mod it with the "works" ie 2.5L/ 3.0L RB stick some hairdryers, put some nice brakes... and its ready to roll...

....rb20det is pretty dam economical ...i get 11 to 12L per 100km city driving which i think is really good ....and 8 per 100km highway driving

u aint going to get much better than unless u get a smaller laser or corrolla.

my last car with a 2.4 L motor got min 14 in the city and min 10 on the freeway....it was an NA car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...