Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well thats what happens when u expect too much. You do the hard work, do it yourself, properly...and u get a shitty Dyno readout, I know it means nothing but yknow....

On Formaz dyno i peaked 296hp @ 15psi

3pm this arvo so pretty warm still,

Ignition only 15 degrees due to pinging

The car is good for about 18psi at the moment with that turbo but the heart was going too much and in my eyes all i could see was blue smoke come out the exhaust but was only water vapour! So i limited pressure to 15 and tuned to 11.6A/F

Im not sure if my graph looks tuned properly but it cost me $240 grrr

I cant tell much difference from when the SAFC was tuned to before it was tuned, I have an aftermarket TOP SECRET Computer which seems to advance top end timing which limits me to sucky 15deg base timing which robs me of power!

I basically got 26hp from 2.5psi increase an increase in size of compresser housing to T04 and SAFC tune

Am i expecting too much to say that i should of gotten more?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6785-back-to-the-drawing-board/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Don't worry too much, we've all been there (or going there), that is spending a shitload of money and getting sfa in return. I've often been surprise that by doing very minor mods how you can get a large increase in power, and yet throwing thousands can reap so little.

Anyway getting big reliable horsepower isn't as easy as we would all like, just adding a bigger turbo isn't a miracle cure.

Don't be too disappointed, it can only make you strive harder to improve the car and the power.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Don't worry too much, we've all been there (or going there), that is spending a shitload of money and getting sfa in return. I've often been surprise that by doing very minor mods how you can get a large increase in power, and yet throwing thousands can reap so little.

Anyway getting big reliable horsepower isn't as easy as we would all like, just adding a bigger turbo isn't a miracle cure.  

Don't be too disappointed, it can only make you strive harder to improve the car and the power.

See'ya:burnout:

Ya i know what u mean...

But of course a bigger turbo isnt the only thing ive done in fact iv hardly changed turbo characteristics since my last run with 270hp on same dyno @13psi I expected the tuning to reap more! perhaps it was because it was a friday and they were in a hurry to get out of there and crack a beer

I must admit when I added my engine management (Wolf 3D Ver.4 plug'n'play) the power increase was quite substantial. I had setup all of the airflow system first, i.e. Greddy Plenum, 3" intercooler pipes, R34 GTR FMIC, 90mm throttle body etc. The increase in power was so substantial that my factory clutch only lasted 2 days.

I now have an OS Giken twin-plate to handle the power.

It is never a good idea to rush a tuning job, because there are so many variables, there can be substantial power in a couple degrees of timing etc.

If you really think that there should be more power then go somewhere else and get them to tune it. But don't blame me if you end up getting less power.

I tend to concentrate more on the difference in road power output, than that on the dyno. If you can feel the difference on the road then thats all that really counts, but its nice to have a dyno sheet that shows a curve that most mountaineers would be scared to climb.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

. , but its nice to have a dyno sheet that shows a curve that most mountaineers would be scared to climb.

See'ya:burnout:

Adam32 has one of those

I dont really care what it says on the dyno at the end of the day, but it is a basis on which u can better and correct things that have happened. Im not going to tune my car on the road. Ive done that before with other cars..

Thanks for the insight tho :)

Vspec gtst?

I guess I should expect this, I've already answered others on the forum. Probably should change my user name.

My R33 GTS-t has a VSPEC diff, yes it does have the fins on the diff like the VSPEC's. That means that I have the benefit of both traction control and Active LSD. It came from the factory with this so I presume there aren't too many of them around.

The Active LSD is really cool for high speed cornering, causing the back-end to quickly turn in so you can keep the power down.

See'ya

:burnout:

This is why I have never been really interested in measuring a car's performance by what the dyno says. You get into the "my car pulls 350HP""yeah but my car pulls 450HP" Unless its the same dyno, same day sort of thing it isnt worth the hassle. As its been said before its best to visit the same dyno each time to get a realistic figure of how much performance you have gained. This is why I like 1/4 mile times, but again simular arguements can happen. Maybe you should ditch the ecu and go for an apexi fc or something. Obviously the top secret ecu was tuned for 100ron fuel etc etc

Rob

Skyzerr33,

The Active LSD really does crap all over the standard diff for high speed cornering, you can go in way to fast, turn the wheel and the ass end will follow. It would be useless for drifting but I think it would have an advantage in circuit style racing.

See'ya

:burnout:

Originally posted by macka

I basically got 26hp from 2.5psi increase an increase in size of compresser housing to T04 and SAFC tune

Am i expecting too much to say that i should of gotten more?

My sympathies dude, I'd be pretty disheartened. Just doesn't seem to add up does it?

It's amazing some of the oddities that come out of the Nissan factory. I was speaking to a guy today who was telling me about an R33 GTS-t which had 4WD.

An no this is not some punk kid who couldn't tell the difference between a GTR and a GTS-t. This was in fact an Automotive Engineer, the ones who sign off on modifications for ADR's etc.

So it goes to show that sometimes you can score in the lucky-dip that is Jap Imports.

Anyway back to the real thread, sorry to have side tracked the discussion.

It does seem a somewhat piddling increase in power for the extra gear that your running. I suppose you have checked all of the usual culprits for lack of horsepower, i.e. boost leak from intercooler pipes, gapped spark plugs etc.

I agree it doesn't seem to add up, but the problem with chips even from companies as good as Top Secret, is the lack of tunability. You kind of have to pop it in a hope for the best. They will have tuned there ROM's for 100+RON fuel, therefore allowing them to run more timing. I went for full engine management just so that at whatever stage I want to take the car I can keep the same computer.

8x 1000cc injectors?? Yeah no problem we can tune that, bigger turbo?? easy. Anyway you get the idea. The Japs love to have multiple piggy back systems, but I don't necessarily believe it gives reliable results.

I'd try an speak to a number of tuners around the place and see if they agree with you in lack of performance increase. It does'nt cost anything to ask, well not usually.

See'ya:burnout:

macka as far as i understand it; you need the turbo to flow more air, to do this you get a bigger turbo. HOWEVER then you sacrifice driveability (note my 4000rpm spool-up). if i were you id be happy with the car as it is, it is fast! just cos shan's still faster, dont worry well work something out :)

wait til wednesday and see what times you post down the 1/4 before claiming a lack of power etc. more power doesnt neccessarily make a faster car and if you run a 13.5-13.6 (as you should) then id definately be happy.

then 550cc injectors, Z32 AFM, and 18psi :burnout:

Macka, I'd say it was the ECU dude... They run multiple maps in all of those plug in ones, and switch to the low pwer soon as they hear any detonation.....

In my opinion most of the good power gains come from the ignition timing.......

L8r

Doc.

Hi Hicks,

Yes I'd recommend the new Wolf 3D Ver. 4, GTS-t plug'n'play. The new one for GTR's will be out soon, and I hear they are adding new stuff to control the 4WD, maybe power split between front and rear?

I was told by the guys at Xspeed that the Autronic was the only way to go, but when the new Wolf came out they have since changed there minds. The Autronic is still great but seeing as the Wolf is so much cheaper, more map sites etc, then it was hard to pass up.

See'ya :burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...