Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I also had a heap of trouble finding the correct size. I foolishly didn't write it down when i found the right fitting. I think it is 12x1.0mm but i'm not 100% on that. It must also have an inverted flare. Best bet is to get one from here....

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category2_1.htm

Water fittings are 14x1.5mm as you mentioned.

search back about 6-8 months ago, r31nismoid (im pretty sure) gave the same answer to someone else who had a similar question regarding the oil feed, i recall that he's one at least had a built in reistricitor so it didnt need an inline one, best do a search as i cant remember exactly

I got mine from Earls and don't quote me but I think it was an imperial 7/16 x 24 TPI inverted flare . It is critical to use that flare as the conical insert in the top of the housing locates the bearing pack . BB turbos need less oil than bush type (annular contact ball bearings have much less contact area) and if you dont restrict it the excess oil causes drag and oil seal leakage problems .

Cheers A .

Thanks

I rang horsepowerinabox.com. He deals the garrett BB GT range and sells everything to go with them and so I trust his reply. He mentioned that the GT series do have an internal restrictor and so you dont need a fitting with a restrictor. You DO NEED however the reverse flare.

Thanks

Please, if you run a BB GT series turbo, tell me if you run this restrictor please as I want to do the right thing. Ill contact horsepowerinabox 2mrw anyways.

Cheers

yes, no restrictor required.

There is an internal .7mm restrictor on the turbo cartridge itself.

Just make sure you get the flared end so that it mates to the turbo.

Or just get a speed-flo fitting from your local fittings ship (puprle pig/enzed/ HIS Hose)

they come ready to go, only cost a few dollars and just screw in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...