Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am only new here and to skylines, I am after a R34 skyline. I live on Gold Coast QLD, and everyone aorund here reckons u cant get manuals, very rare and expensive, which currently i can see that all R34"s are tiptronic auto.

If i drive it like a manual pushing down gears into corners and stuff will it kill the auto? I have driven manuals never auto. Driven my mums tiptronic audi that was not bad.

So i guess what i would like to know is if it is going to kill the auto, if so anyone know how much to convert to manual, considering R34's got buttons on steering wheel 2.

Otherwise i may have to get a R33 GTST Series2 or sofin.

Thanx for any help :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68258-r34-gtst-tiptronic-questions/
Share on other sites

Manuals aren't rare at all. They are more expensive though, the price difference between a similar conidition auto to manual can be upto 10-15k!

As for the strength of the 34 auto, there are a few issues with solenoids but generally they can quite happily withstand 200rwkw. As for driving it like a manual, you won't. The tiptronic isn't designed to be driven like a manual and shouldn't be. It is faster to take off using auto, sometimes it is better to shift down for a corner but very rarely.

The manual conversion has been done by a few guys on here and they could tell you the cost.

Like most newer turbo cars the 34 auto has a factory re-circ blow off valve. I suspect you are talking about actually hearing the noise. You will hear it but only when you back-off the accelerator as an auto holds boost between gear changes. I have the stock re-circ and it is very loud through an apexi pod.

The tiptronic isn't designed to be driven like a manual and shouldn't be. It is faster to take off using auto

Eh?

I find I get alot more out of my car when I use tiptronic, the auto won't hold the gears as long as you can in tiptronic. If you want to know if giving the tiptronic handles being driven rough, come talk to me in 6 months, and see if I'm buying a new gear box :wassup:

if you get an auto i think it should be fine unless you start to run more power than abo bob does. Below that power level it should be fine with the standard oil cooler. If you want to make sure then get a bigger oil cooler in order to make sure the auto box doesnt get too hot as thats what kills them.

The autos are stong, I've had my car for almost 3 years...over a year of it running a turbo on the N/A setup. The only trouble I've had is slipping at high rpm/power but that's because the N/A box has less clutch packs than the turbo box.

As mentioned the only trouble you *may* have is the shift solenoids..which isn't related to box strength anyway.

i too was looking at replacing the stock plumback BOV with an atmosphere type but after emailing the guys at XSpeed they said that the car will stall when de-accelerating, what can i do prevent this?

Alot people say you must have an manual to have a BOV but it makes no difference really since autos have to vent excess boost as well, it just won't make a noise when changing gears.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...