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New R34 owner with problems already!


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that looks awesome. I've got this little ass laptop from when i was a at school, Toshiba Portege, small as anything (cos everything is external) but would fit in the glovebox, so the Nissan Consult thing looks awesome...

Troy, as far as i know, car has never been jumped... oh wait, the compliancer did say they had to change the battery cos the original one was flat, so if they did that, that means someone would have had to discover the fact it was flat and maybe jump it at some stage. Why do you ask if it's been jumped?

and do Manuals have coil packs? all the coil pack stuff i've been reading at in regards to 34's seems to be with auto's???

i'll take the car out again tonight and see if it does it again.

Coz it could have the flat battery code stored in the ecu....GTR's are famous for losing there 4WD intermittetly coz of this code....and chinny coil packs are on all engines that dont have a distributor cap

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ok, took the car out last night, and the got the f*cking lights come on again :)

i'll do a search for entering diagnostic mode soon, and get that going.

So is this Error 21 a coil pack relating thing?

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it's nothing major as far as i know, and hasn't seemed to be a major problem for other ppl, but i don't know yet if it's the coil packs or what... (not that i know even what a coil pack is! :D) - all cars are going to have problems with them. You buy a wrx and you might lose the gear box and clutch. Overall, a R34, i think, is a very reliable choice if you find a good condition car.

I drove the car 900km's from Syd to Melb and it ran smooth as anything. I just don't having the car not being driven weeks at a time is doing it any good.

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ok, how do i get into diagnostic mode???? i found this link...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=diagnostic+34

for those who can't be bothered reading the thread, here's the explanation i found...

gaki.....the vehicle has an on board diagnosis function.....it is activated by earthing one of the wires in the diagnostic connector ....you will see a little door/panel that unclips from on the lower steering column trim....thats where it lives....i cant remember which wire it is but you just switch the ignition on and earth it momentary and it enters diag mode.........to check which one it is....just check for positive power and you know its not that one.....you cant harm anything from earthing something thats not live....anyway once it enters diag mode the lamp will start to flash....to exit just switch the ingition off

i know Troy you've explained it properly, but i have no idea how to do what you've described.... could someone possibly break it down for the dumb ass here :D

cheers.

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Oh ok so it is the only problem you have had so far? How about others? I have had experience with Nissan coil packs before as I had my old 180sx since '98 ( i had to replace a few), but thats gone to a new home now. BTW the coilpacks sit on top of the spark plugs, which are located between the 2 cam covers under the cover that is there. Not so easy to see on a 34 due to the big NEO cover there but on R32/3's etc easy to see.

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Omp: I've had no problems whatsoever in the 8 months I've had my car. Check engine has not come on once.

The traction control is good in the wet, but its not much use in the dry as it tends to be more of a hindrance to spirited driving than a help.

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well i've JUST sorted out how i'm going move the bloody thing around.

Shannons will insure the car whilst it's not rego'd, which means i can get a temp rego and drive the car legally to your workshop, or whatever other workshop. So let me get that sorted, but i have a mate working at a workshop bout 10mins from my house, so i'm going to get him to do a diagnostic thing, see what the problem is and see if we can fix it.

Also, i'll go drive the car out to Dietmar's joint and see what he says about the spoiler holes, and if he's not going to do it properly, i can drive the car to your workshop.

i'll let you know how it goes.

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f*cking shannon's.... :D

anyways, had a sneaky trip to the servo last night to put some petrol in the car (fuel light was coming on... at first i'm like, not another f*cking light!) - take it down, still get the TCS and check engine lights, only seems to happen once the car has warmed out too?? - but now a new twist... at idle it's dropping it's revs and almost stalling, but the computer will jump in and raise the revs a bit, but yeah, came VERY close to stall quite a few time on idle... does this indicate anything?

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Mate, why don't you just run the diagnostic test?

All you need is a paper clip to short out two of the wires in the diagnostic port.

This will tell you what the ECU see's as a problem.

Search the forums.

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this morning it happened again, im with you mate, what the hell is going on!!! - TCS/SLIP and check engine came on after about 10mins of driving - for the past couple of days it hasn't come on at all. - i was thinking of taking it down to the local Nissan dealership but i doubt they would have clue so does anyone know of a japanese forum that i could post this question to?

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i just don't like the idea of 'shorting out' something.....

When will we start seeing competent people over here (expecially out here in the country areas) that can service imports.

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i just don't like the idea of 'shorting out' something.....

When will we start seeing competent people over here (expecially out here in the country areas) that can service imports.

That by shorting it is connect two wires together that puts the ECU in diagnostic mode.

Anyway, it is up to you. I don't have this problem with my 34 anymore.

:)

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