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just went for a little drive, nothing strenuous...

then my car started to rev out once it hit 3500RPM... like it would accelerate fine up to ~3500, then after than it just revved, but seemed like nothing be transfered to the wheels, as if i had the clutch engaged...

now its a twin plate clutch (nfi on brand, was in the car when i bought it) nfi on age either, altho im lead to beleive its sub 12months...

when i stopped at lights with it in nuetral, taking off the clutch seemed to be fine for a bit, then ****ed up again... like it had the normal 2 grab points... then taking off without a prolonged stop, it would only have one grab point on takeoff...

the gearbox oil had redline shockproof put in it last july... could old/lack of oil be the problem? or has the clutch shat itself? :rofl:

thanks in advance.

:rofl:

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had this problem a few years ago, it's a slipping clutch orright, had to get a new clutch shipped over from Japan when that happened to me, put me back a few hundred dollars. Lucky for you it's an R33 so finding one wont be as hard. I'm pretty sure it (mine) was over 12 months old though.

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well, after speaking to ken at hyperdrive this morning, and cringing over the price of a replacement twin plate clutch...

he told me to basically go thrash the car thru the gears for a bit.. to which i did, and my clutch seems to be fixed! rang him again, seems like oil or something may have been on the plates/flywheel... going to see how it goes in the next few days and hopefully ken just saved me $1000 by telling me to thrash what seemed to be a broken clutch :)

you know its good when you have to thrash your car to fix it :D

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well.. on the way home it decided it wanted to sort of do the same thing... but i couldnt really thrash it, lack of tread + rain == slippery skyline... cant tell if its reving out, or spinning the rear wheels half the time :D

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update...

after just trying some more stress testing.. it went weird... all out flooring it, quarter mile style, it went pretty much fine... however cruising in a gear, then planting it and dipping the clutch sees it bouncing off the rev limter and not coming back down or transfering anything to the wheels... and normal driving was pretty bad, and takeoffs were rough as hell, have to launch at ~2500-3000rpm to get it somewhat properly, any lower and it vibrates like hell :(

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update...

after just trying some more stress testing.. it went weird... all out flooring it, quarter mile style, it went pretty much fine... however cruising in a gear, then planting it and dipping the clutch sees it bouncing off the rev limter and not coming back down or transfering anything to the wheels... and normal driving was pretty bad, and takeoffs were rough as hell, have to launch at ~2500-3000rpm to get it somewhat properly, any lower and it vibrates like hell :(

Sounds like a bit of a problem if it's still happening, if you do have to replace it go heavy duty. Get something strong that won't get you like this will.

Still hope it works out for you though!!!

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ken reckons an xtreme single plate brass button clutch and lightened flywheel is going to be a much better option for my car, and about 1/3rd the price of a replacement twin plate os giken with standard flywheel....

Strisch9 - my clutch pedal used to be extremely hard, and is still relatively hard now, im taking it to hyperdrive some time next week to let them have a looksee and tell me what the verdict is, i just want my clutch working before i try venture 500km to geraldton.. and then back :(

and then if i do get my clutch done, will most likely get my ECU retuned while im in there, having unburnt fuel all over the back of my car is kinda sucky...

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you know what.. i just have had the same problem. I was driving fine.. then put my foot down in 4th to overtake, it started picking up then felt like it starting slipping (or spinning the wheels but im pretty sure slipping). But seemed fine .. then did it again. Wierd. Maybe the change in the weather doesnt suit out skylines :)

Hopefully it'll correct itself

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a heavy duty single plate puck clutch isnt an improvement on the twin plate that is already in there. Look at having the twin plate rebuilt if that is the case, do not let the workshop retain the twin plate, even in warn guise they have some value.

argh, and twinplates come with their own *usually lightened* twin plate. Try and do some research into what twin plate you have and replacement plates of them.

CHeers

Sean

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it may not be an improvment, but im better off with a single plate...

my car only has 200rwkW, doesnt *need* a twin plate, not to mention i work in ossy park, start/stop traffic is an absolute bitch with my current twin plate... then there is another thing called money... $2700 for a new twin plate installed, ~$1500+ for rebuild, or ~$900 for a lovely new smooth single plate clutch.

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~$900 for a lovely new smooth single plate clutch.

haha i dont think the single is going to be smooth

smooth is a full face organic clutch that allows a bit of slip (seen on OE cars)

your ceramic button clutch is going to be strictly off/on (depending on the amount of pucks/paddles they chose) until you wear it out a bit :rofl:

theres a good chance its gonna be harder to drive than your twin plate

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haha i dont think the single is going to be smooth

smooth is a full face organic clutch that allows a bit of slip (seen on OE cars)

your ceramic button clutch is going to be strictly off/on (depending on the amount of pucks/paddles they chose) until you wear it out a bit :rofl:

theres a good chance its gonna be harder to drive than your twin plate

Bullshit.

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