Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET Conversion Help

rb25detcalais
 Share

Recommended Posts

rb25detcalais Contributor

rb25detcalais

Posted
Posted

Hey ppl, well I know this comes up all the time as I have done a search and none of the solutions seem to help. I have just come by a car that I have bought knowingly not working. It has a S2 RB25DET STOCK. When I picked it up it was misfiring heaps and a crap-load of black smoke as soon as it hit boost (but only a little on idle and cruise). Running rich - definately! I found the alternator was wired wrong hence the flat battery when I got home. Fixed that.

I have tested the AFM on a mates R33 and its working fine. I have checked all the wires going back to the ECU - they seem to be correct. My next step is to test my ECU on my friends R33 to check whether the ECU is bugered.

I have done a diagnostic on the ecu - 55 - all ok. Apparently before the engine was converted into this car by the previous owner he was driving it and it was running fine. I have checked the coils (resistance varies only slightly). I have checked the grounding for the injectors and coils.... I am REALLY stumped on this one. The crank angle sensor has apparently been replaced with a newy.

I dont think its the turbo as it spools up nice and the BOV is heard... The engine seems to be OK with regards to oil being where it shouldnt (coolant) and vica versa. I just can't understand why it's overfueling unless it has something to do with the Fule pressure regulator... but then that wouldn't explain the misfiring. I am also going to check the plugs tonight...

Sorry for the bore as a lot of you may have heard this so many times over.... any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68796-rb25det-conversion-help/
Share on other sites
rb25detcalais Contributor

rb25detcalais

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I am a little lost for options. I have tested the AFM on my friends R33 and it has worked fine. I can't think of much else that I have not mentioned originally above that could cause it. I will have to see whether my ECU does the same sort of thing when we put it in his tonight. On top of that if I could actually drive it properly (Is really bad) I might be able to think of some other things... but I can hardly get it out of the garage :D

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Was the crank angle sensor replaced prior to the problem starting? there a few different types apparently.

The missfire could be a result of stupid amounts of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure? It may be the problem, could also be bigger injectors if you're really lucky :)

rb25detcalais Contributor

rb25detcalais

Posted
  • Author
Posted

today I just bought a new aftermarket regulator... still same prob. I am starting to think its either the injectors or ecu... my ecu has "G8" on the label, is this standard for a S2 rb25det? I am thinking maybe this isnt the right ecu and its outputting the wrong impedence to the injectors.... perhaps the ecu is outputting a high impedence signal when the injector needs a low impedence signal.. or vica versa. Can anyone help with this???

rb25detcalais Contributor

rb25detcalais

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BTW the car this came out of was auto, its now manual so I don't know whether there are different ecu's for auto or manual like the RB30's.... in other words if there is a difference then the ecu would have been changed and it's a bigger possibility that it could be that... a wrong ecu. I have no idea whether this is the same ecu out of the old car or whether its another the previous owner sourced...

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Take the injectors out and heve them tested / cleaned.

Also, was the timing reset after the CAS was replaced? If you can hardly get it out of the garage, it sounds like the CAS is out to buggery (firing AFTER TDC, maybe).

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The battery has nothing to do with the timing - disconnecting the battery will have no effect on the settings of the CAS. You need to hook up a timing light to check what the base timing is (at idle, it should be around 15 BTDC)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...