Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi :(

I know at least a couple of people have HKS GT-RS turbos on their R33 Skylines, and have seen some dyno results from people using them - but there are a couple of questions which have I've had that I haven't found answered yet:

What boost level is the actuator that comes with the turbo set to?

Do people use the factory fuel system - or upgrade the pump? Injectors?

What kind of 1/4 mile times have people with them on R33s achieved?

Any input would be appreciated :(

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69158-hks-gt-rs-questions/
Share on other sites

hi mate i think they upgrade the fuel system with the turbo.It makes allot of scence.

P.S. Allot of people say that the hks actuators are set at 1bar permanent but i belive that this is not the case as how can people not have a lower seting of boost for their given application.

I think that it is the recomended pressure that they run best at most efficiently for heat created spoolup,response and peak hold psi.IMO not many others i think though.

Not sure what boost level the actuator comes set at but the minimum boost I can run is 0.9 although it still seems to sit at 15psi anyway, max boost is 1.2 with stock internals.

I have a bosch 044 fuel pump and 555cc nismo injectors.

Have not taken it to drags yet but got 270rwkw and not to much lag so should be in the 12s depending on tires?

This is what I found on google

Direct bolt-on to stock manifold. Includes 0.9kg Actuator, Gaskets and other Hardware. S13 requires custom or modified oil/coolant lines.

52T / A/R 0.64 / T25 Inlet / Internal Wastegate

Not sure what boost level the actuator comes set at but the minimum boost I can run is 0.9 although it still seems to sit at 15psi anyway, max boost is 1.2 with stock internals.

I have a bosch 044 fuel pump and 555cc nismo injectors.

Have not taken it to drags yet but got 270rwkw and not to much lag so should be in the 12s depending on tires?

Awesome - thanks a lot :P That pretty much covers what I was looking for.

So it drives fairly well like a pretty standard R33 when not giving it some??

Reedy, Wat rpm range does it spool up and create full boost by i am looking at putting one on my rb20 soon but i havent been able to find out wat rough area it will spool up by i've got the stock rb25 series 1 turbo on my car at the moment and i dont get full boost untill around 4000rpm lil bit after running 14psi lil bit before running 10psi.. so yer any info on spool of GTRS would be helpful thanks :D

On WWW.HKS-POWER.CO.JP (warning... in japanese) you can go to the turbos menu, and there is a section called "RB20-25" or something like that, which has a section on the GT-RS and GT2530Kai kits for R32 and R33 GTSt Skylines. It shows boost plots and dyno plots comparing between a stock R33 turbo and a GTRS or GT2530Kai to get an idea of comparative power/torque/spool performance.

The GT-RS at least on paper looks SLIGHTLY laggier than the R33 turbo, maybe ~300-400rpm later at most to reach the same boost level on an Rb25. The 2530Kai looks like its better right through the rev range than the R33 turbo. From what I've seen around the place, the 2530Kai looks like what I'd consider the perfect turbo for a "street tune" R32 GTSt with an RB20DET. Slightly better down low, and much better up high and with higher boost levels than the R33 unit.

I'm just looking for what realistcally I'd have to expect in terms of set up and general driving with one :D I have no doubt I'll like the full throttle performance of a GT-RS.

My mods are;

-Full 3 inch exhaust

-FMIC

-Bosch 044 fuel pump

-Spitfire ignition coils

-Power FC and boost kit

-Adjustable exhaust cam gear

-Nismo 555cc injectors

-HKS GT-RS turbo kit

-Z32 AFM

-Xtreme billet lightened flywheel

-UAS sports clutch kit

-Tein super street coilovers

-Whiteline front and rear swaybars

-JIC tension rods, front negative upper link, rear adjustable upper link

ahh k so not really all that much difference but yer i think i might go one of these GTRS's on the rb20 put a set of pon cams in to reduce a little bit of lag.. nice setup :rofl:

thats pretty much what i hope to do in the near future :)

;)

What I had hoped I'd be able to get away with is getting a decent fuel pump , a PFC, FMIC and a GT-RS kit and get it tuned on the minimum boost setting - is it fair to say that even if I wanted to run the "minimum" I'd still need the bigger injectors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...