Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Ok i have bought a new alarm security system off the net and I was wondering if anyone knew of a reasonably priced joint that would install it for me.

My old man checked out 3 places today and the prices for installation were.... 800bucks!!!! $550 and $350.. geez talk about one extreme to the other.

By the way, the place that said 550 dollars will not however install the remote start since i have a manual etc...

I'll keep looking around but if there is anyone out there that could recommend me a reliable and hopefully more affordable place that would be sweet!!

Thanks

btw somewhere on the southside would be best

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69620-where-to-go-to-get-alarm-installed/
Share on other sites

Out of interest, does this alarm have coloured wiring and external relays? 90 percent of the internet bought alarms do, and these are NOT a valid alarm for insurance. Insurance specifies 2 stage immobilisation, internal relays and all black wiring.

Just a heads up before you blow a lot of money getting an alarm installed, only to find your insurance voided if you ever need to claim a theft etc.

refer to the thread below regarding stereo installs. You will find that most reputable installers will not install remote start to a manual car. And also as per Krawlers advice above as well. If its not black wiring, might affect your insurance claim.

refer to the thread below regarding stereo installs.  You will find that most reputable installers will not install remote start to a manual car.  And also as per Krawlers advice above as well.  If its not black wiring, might affect your insurance claim.

Yeap so i have found out about the remote start to a manual car... The place that will do it for 350, which is the cheapest so far will do it and they will also include some safeguard that will disable the remote start if it is accidently in gear. I'm not too sure how it all works.

thanks

Always had great results with Mongoose. Had a total of 4 cars that have been installed with a Mongoose alarm (2 x work vans, 1 x VL, 1 x Skyline) and its worked a treat every time. Recently the siren failed on 1 of the work vans, and they came out to me and replaced it free.

All Mongoose alarms are to australian & international standards + meet insurance requirements, even the bottom of the line stuff. Be wary of Viper and Black Widow etc, as only the higher end stuff meets insurance requirements. Had a brand alarm in my laser when I first got it, which is basically identical to the majority of the ones you see for sale on ebay etc. External relays, coloured wires, etc. Remote start too. Even with the alarm armed, you could just unplug the alarm module from its loom and happily start the car etc with no siren going off. Way to go awesome alarm!

Chris Rogers (SoundOff) reccomends QuickTrack sat tracking over any others, mainly due to far more coverage than other networks. I've never used it myself though.

I just installed a alarm system which I happened to buy off ebay as well. It had remote start as well. I know you can purchase a module from Autobarn to stop your car starting in gear which hooks up to your alarm.

I was quoted similar prices as yourself, so I installed the alarm my self into my GTR R33. Everything works perfectly - remote start, doors locking,unlocking, etc.

If you need some advice or help in a DIY install, I should be able to help.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sry to drag this thread up again...but I just bought an alarm (yeah off ebay lol). I checked around and it's the same one they sell in Strathfield for $300 but got it for $165, has black wiring, 2 point etc...no remote start which I don't care about anyway. Strathfield loosely quoted about $150 to install it with a lifetime guarantee on the install. Still checking around but that seems pretty good to me.

I think $150 is a good price to install an alarm. When I bought mine through ebay :Oops: they wanted like $350.00 to install.

No way I'm paying that since I only purchased the alarm for $170.00

I installed it myself but I did get a Car Alarm installer to install the drivers door lock actuator which locks the door when you press the alarm keypad. This was done for $60.00 - not too bad I think

It took a while to install but took my time and I had remote starting so took a little longer, but its perfect now.

refer to the thread below regarding stereo installs.  You will find that most reputable installers will not install remote start to a manual car.  And also as per Krawlers advice above as well.  If its not black wiring, might affect your insurance claim.

You should also note that any decent installer will, however, hook up a remote start to a manual vehicle if the vehicle's turbo timer is on. IE. The remote start is wired through the turbo timer so that if the timer is on, the remote start works. If the timer is off, then the remote start won't work. Reason being that if your timer was on the last time you turned the car off, then it should naturally be in neutral. (of course there are ways that this can be different so I don't need every idiot telling me how you can get around this)

Advance Radio at slacks creek will do the install for you and they are usually pretty cheap too. They can also set up the remote start for you. They also make and sell the remote start modules.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...