Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And you can't break traction in first gear, wtf? :wassup:

when i had 330rwkw i could :(

Denham, it was running 24 psi on 104 octane fuel.

There is a slight turbo issue with my car in that its slightly mis-matched and has a bit of surge down below, and much over 17-18psi it gets some detonation.

Not much i can do, but give it some good fuel and its a open slat. We didnt wind more boost in as i need some ignition.

thats next on the list if i want some more power on 104

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

when i had 330rwkw i could  ;)

Denham, it was running 24 psi on 104 octane fuel.

There is a slight turbo issue with my car in that its slightly mis-matched and has a bit of surge down below, and much over 17-18psi it gets some detonation.

Not much i can do, but give it some good fuel and its a open slat. We didnt wind more boost in as i need some ignition.

thats next on the list if i want some more power on 104

Sunocorp 104 straight or % mixed in with 98??

If will start getting expensive if you have to run 104 for daily use :(

U have standard cams, head etc dont ya?

pure 104, had to be to get over the detonation problems on PULP due to the turbo

im not using it daily like that. lol. Im dropping back to under 300rwkw for normal driving. 330-360rwkw is useless.

We were seeing what we could do with the car for salon by have a play around with some things.

We found some more limitations on the hardware i have. We'll stuff more than 24psi into it once i get my ingition sorted (which is a long way away)

Race Pace Motorsport, the one and only place ill take my car from now on.

There is no-one decent around the west/north. I've been through many workshops who just have muppets working there who dont know enough to satisfy me taking my business there.

Race Pace is about a 45mins drive... to bayswater. But my car has been going there since mid last year.

Very thankful. Its worth the drive.

does anyone know what part number or serial number is stamped into a genuine gtr conrod? are all gtr rods created equal?

Sorry, my conrods went in 2 weeks ago - can't check for you. As far as I know, the R32 & R33 GTR conrods are the same size & strength. I can't give you a definite answer, as I was only told by a couple of engineers & 2 different sellers on the forums (can't remember their names), when I bought mine. I used R33 GTR conrods in my R33 GTS-T. Not sure about R34 GTR conrods.

Someone should soon post a 100% yes or no answer for you, I'm sure.

Cheers

Chris

can anyone recommend any good engine rebuilding workshops in or around epping victoria??? r31 nismoid youre from around this area, any ideas?

P.E.T Modifications are in thomastown and have built plenty of tough and big hp Nissan engines (VLs, Skylines, GTRs, etc).

Give dennis a call on 9464 4225 and tell him Gorjan (RS500) referred you.

does anyone know what part number or serial number is stamped into a genuine gtr conrod? are all gtr rods created equal?

they should be all the same from memory.

Put em next to an RB25DET rod and you can instantly see the difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...