Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Im thinking of getting a Ipod and a fm transmitter to broadcast the ipod through my car speakers.

I have been looking at Roadtrip and Transpod which are the ones the transmit and charge ur ipod at the same time as well as hold it.

Could anyone tell me how good these are? or if there is a better way of playing the music through my car speakers with out a big hassel.

My factory head unit alredy has a line out for the factory cd stacker which I dont have (2 RCA cords and 1 stacker cord)

I anyone can let me know about these transmitters, clearness and quality etc or another way I would be greatful

Thanks

CHASP

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69840-ipod-fm-transmitter-help/
Share on other sites

Im not too sure about the Roadtrip and the Transpond.

I have a Griffen Itrip which only transmits so it doesnt charge but when i use to use it i thought it was pretty good sound quality.

Just takes a bit of trial and error where to set the transmitter and where to actually have it placed in the car.

They are crap. Connect it to your deck or if you can't, get a better deck...

i agree ;)

i bought a Griffin itrip for my ipod mini, i took it back after a day, the sound qaulity was shithouse, it sounded shit on both my car deck and on my very $$$ sony sound system in my house.

My tip say away from them untill apple mades one :D

you can get belkin ones from jb hi-fi and the like that you can tune in to any station you like for about $70.

big w sell fm transmitters for $40 but they are locked to 4 stations, which it will swap from one to the other if it interferes with another station.

dont know what the quality is like of either one, but i plan on getting one for my Hi-MD

Guest Emperor
Yeah the signal is not very strong.  I'd get an RCA to 2.5mm stereo jack cord and hang it out the back into the passenger footwell.  Connect your ipod there.  You can just tuck the cord up behind the dash when not in use.

hey abo bob, this sounds like a good idea, do most aftermarket deck allow you to plug the RCA plug in (warning i am audio newbie), My friend has a similar setup in his car and the quality is very good (but his is connect to some cheap mp3 player :))

Thanks Emperor

no, the input on your amp is supposed be to connected to the output on your deck. the output on your amp goes to the speakers.

what you need is what is known as an "auxilary input". don't bother pulling your deck out. you can check this by simply hitting the 'source' button. it should go through 'CD', 'Tuner' and (if you have one) 'Aux' if you get that option you will no doubt have an RCA input on the back of your deck.

the belkin fm transmitters are crap i bought one and returned it after one day..

the signal was not strong enough for the cd player to get more than about 30 seconds before fuzzing out and in again.

it would probably be better if you did not live in a cbd area..

  • 3 weeks later...

I got a griffen fm transmitter and it's only ok. Maybe because of all the radio stations in Sydney but it's mission impossible trying to find the right band. And even still it's only ok. When I get my next car I'm gonna get an Alpine deck which can connect directly to my ipod.

no, the input on your amp is supposed be to connected to the output on your deck. the output on your amp goes to the speakers.

what you need is what is known as an "auxilary input". don't bother pulling your deck out. you can check this by simply hitting the 'source' button. it should go through 'CD', 'Tuner' and (if you have one) 'Aux' if you get that option you will no doubt have an RCA input on the back of your deck.

my pioneer deck will only bring up the AUX if there is something connected to it.. same with the cd changer....

the new alpines have a direct line into the ipod and will show the id3 tags and stuff direct from the ipod unit, its some form of firewire link or something, someething alpine and apple worked on together

my pioneer deck will only bring up the AUX if there is something connected to it.. same with the cd changer....

Pioneer have finally released an Ipod interface. It plugs into the cd stacker interface and gives you complete control over the Ipod using the controls on the head unit which also displays the tag info. I'd imagine JB Hifi and similar stores would have 'em in stock by now.

mike

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...