Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have searched and cant find anything ellaborative enough.

Please does someone know of a website that outlines the strength of nissan boxes, sizes and other impt specs and pros and cons of each box?

If you know, post your knowledge and maybe I can collate the info amd make a site.

Cheers

180 JT , there is an American site called Handy Dandy Denny with ya or some such , do a search . Its mainly Z stuff but lots on transmissions .

Basically the Nissan / Datsun gearboxes use a series number based on the number of mm between the main and layshaft centers . The series and options of the boxes is usually cast in the side of the case . The numbers and letters define the bellhousing type and bolt pattern , the shift mechanism , the shaft centers and possibly the syncro type . There are lots of variations that were model specific but the basics are as follows for the 71 series 6 cyl boxes .

240K - 71mm centers , servo (Porsche) syncros 1-4 , warner syncro 5th

narrow gears , steel forks , steel front bearing cover / spigot , wide ratio .

260Z - same as above with closer ratios ie 2.9 1st , aluminium front bearing cover .

910 - FS5W71B - same but unique ratios ie 3.32 , 2.07 , 1.31 , 1 , 0.83 , alloy

forks , all Warner syncros .

Z18T - LZ5W71B - as above but wide ratio ie 3.6 1st , Z/L bellhousing .

FJET - as above with Skyline ratios ie 3.32 , 1.906 , 1.31 , 1 , 0.83 . Wider

gears , larger diameter syncro hub 1-2 , larger diameter 1-2 shift rod , FJ

bellhousing .

RB20T - RB71C as above with larger 3-4 syncro hub , C type shift mechanism , all

large shift rods , larger front lay gear bearing (also used in Ser 3 bird) .

Sub gear on front of laygear to prevent backlash at idle in neutral .

As for the larger boxes used with VG30's , RB25T's , RB26's and

RB30ET's I'm not sure of the specific numbers . I believe the shift

mechanism is partly external on Z32's . I think the ratios are wider on the

VLT box than R33 25T and the VL box may not have the twin cone

syncro hubs .

Is it certain that the RB25DET is internally stronger than the RB20DET?

I know it is externally bigger, but can anyone confirm that internally the 25 is stronger than the 20.

Ive had bearing probs with mine, but so has my friend in his R33 with less power and less Km's.

So still tossing up wether its worth swaping for a RB25 box....

Is it certain that the RB25DET is internally stronger than the RB20DET?

I know it is externally bigger, but can anyone confirm that internally the 25 is stronger than the 20.

There is no question that an RB25DET gearbox is much stronger than an RB20DET gearbox. Everything - gears/shafts/bearings - is physically much bigger in the RB25DET gearbox.

The series and options of the boxes is usually cast in the side of the case . The numbers and letters define the bellhousing type and bolt pattern , the shift mechanism , the shaft centers and possibly the syncro type .

None of the early gearboxes (up to the end of R30 production) have any (usable) identifying marks on the outside. The top of the bellhousing just behind the head sometimes has some stamped numbers/letters which might be a serial number, but only Nissan know

servo (Porsche) syncros 1-4 , warner syncro 5th.

Actually the otherway around - warner on 1-4 and servo on 5th, although have seen one or two with warner synchro on 5th. Only 240Z/260Z 5-speeds got servo synchros on gears 1 to 4

240K 5-speeds used the FS5W71B gearbox, but early cars were 4-speed (FS4W71A) and 3.5 diff ratio.

260Z - same as above with closer ratios ie 2.9 1st , aluminium front bearing cover

240Z/260Z used steel front cover, same as 240K. Early 240Z used FS5C71A g/box (flange output; similar to Fairlady gearbox) , late had FS5C71B same as 260Z.

but so has my friend in his R33 with less power and less Km's.  

So still tossing up wether its worth swaping for a RB25 box....

its an import, you cant use odometer readings to judge anything.

Rb25 box should be just about unbreakable in an quick street driven r32 with an rb20.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...