Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gent's today i got a compresstion test to bring my worst dreams to life.

First 3 cyclinders are at 125psi last 3 at 160psi.

So its time for a rebuild and yes when we did a wet and dry test. The cyclinder pressure did rise back to 160.

My question is how much should i expect to pay for a normal rebuild nothing fansy.

Just new pistions, rings maybe rods bearings all the usual stuff. I just want something stronger then standard. that will get me low 11's it already did a 12.1 standard, i do have n1's on it now with power fc zorst cooler and all the goodies.

Pritty much just want a engine stronger then standard with out the bill of a race car.

Can it be done for around 5g (bottem end)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/
Share on other sites

I guess you can build the motor to spool that T04Z now :P

This topic has been covered numberous time if you do a search, basically once you take into account the parts, machining and assembly you will be looking in excess of $5K quite easy, to which degree depends on what parts you will be using. Even with a budget build with just new pistons, bearings, gaskets if you are to do it properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1295338
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1298153
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

DO you have that guys number please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299670
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Dam this is a good price having smillair build but with rods for twice the cost. was this a drive in drive out price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299764
Share on other sites

I went around a fair few repair shops for some repair prices, like a few my RB26 spun a bearing approx 2 months after purchase, (direct from Japan)

After some recearch i found out that a few shops were contracting out their rebuilds to JHH I found him great to bounce ideas off, eg N1 oil & Water pumps sump baffells and turbo setups. My main goal was 500rwhp BULLETPROOF, daily driven,

The total cost for engine in&out will be approx $8000, "Race clutch" from Jim berry $900.

with fuel pump,injector,intercooler,computer,oilcooler&remote mount, diff oilcooler,gearbox oilcooler to follow after initial bedding in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299905
Share on other sites

Thanks guys and yes now i got my loan of 10k so all i need to do is find some one who is gonna build me what i want at a decent price, second thing is my gearbox needs a rebuild to syncros are gone is there such thing as heavy duties for gtr boxs.

Oh oh oh i almost forgot how much power could i make with 34n1's or would it be better to go hks 2540's i dont want a big single how much boost should i run shoul di get a thiker head gasket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299915
Share on other sites

R34 N1 rated at 320hp ea.

Since you are in brisbane have a talk to mike vine turbochargers, (capalaba) been around turbos for a ages, maybe a little pricey but his turbo selection is second to none,

I went for a pair of his Gibson Motorsport spec T28, AWSOME!!!!

HKS head gasket good around $350. bit pricey!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299954
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...