Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think there is.. but if i were you i'd just do yourself a favour (and the car) and drill where the water appears to be pooling.. rather than find out later on that its rusted through. A small drill hole can make a huge difference, and won't destroy any part of the car.

I've killed rust dead in other cars just by doing that. drill hole, rust killer, and never to be rusted ever again.

You can try and find the source also, although that can be diffiult. Usually in an R33 it slides down into just near the hinges and pools there. eventually to slide down and into the boot later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-1299997
Share on other sites

I was getting the same water in the boot problem.

It turned out that some how the washer hose for the rear screen wiper had come off and evertime I wanted to wash the rear screen it was pumping the water straight into the boot.

But if your rear washer is working ok, ie spraying onto the rear screen that won't be the cause of your problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-1301724
Share on other sites

WTF????Do yourself a favour and dont drill any holes!!!!!!!!!I bet the waterwill be coming in from the taillights.....get a garden hose and open the bootlid take the inner taillight boot trim off then run the water at the front near rear windscreen....you will see the water run down into the tail light bezzels and look into the boot and you will see it coming into the boot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-1301754
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Bit of a thread dig....

but after all this rain we've had lately I just notice the swimming pool that was once my boot. Ripped out all the lining and and took out the drain plugs. Once it was all dry I closed the boot lid and soaked around the tail lights with the garden hose then opened it up to see where it was coming from.

Culprit was the seal around the drivers side tail light assembly,

:thanks:

Mike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-6211746
Share on other sites

I'm going to remove and clean the assembly around the bodywork and re-seal it with something that remains soft an tacky like what was use at the factory. I have a panel beater mate, so I'll take over his place, he'll have something for it. Silicon adhesive might be bitch if you need to remove the light later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-6211859
Share on other sites

Well getting the tail light assembly out was the difficult part, unscrewed the nuts but left them still attached to the studs so I could apply force with a socket driver. It took quite a bit of effort to break the seal from the old caulking compound, but once started the rest soon followed. Cleaned the old stuff off with a credit card and mineral turps. Then reapplied new sealant (Selley's D-Mastic) to the tail light assembly and also applied a bead to the body work, and screwed it all together, took less than an hour.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-6214238
Share on other sites

"Dynagrip Weatherstrip And Trim Adhesive"

* Black flexible adhesive

* Waterproof

* Heat resistant

* Adheres to metal, rubber, wood, leather, rigid PVC, etc

I bought mine from Better Brakes

I used it to restick door and window mouldings

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70386-water-in-boot/#findComment-6214455
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...