Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peoples, i just bought a gfb atomic boost controller. $66 on ebay lol.. anyway i dont have a boost gauge other then the stock one... anyone kno how to find out wat the stock boost gauge reads?...

i just want to run 10psi all day everyday. and if anyone knows is it hard to install and does it come wid everyfin in the box? thanksss

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/
Share on other sites

i have a gfb bleed also. easy toinstall, comes with eveything you need from memory

stock gauge reads fine (despite what others might say), its just herd to interpret...

it reads in mmHg, and the conversion is: 760mmHG = 14.3psi

so taking that into consideration, + 3.5 (or half way on the gauge) is about 7psi and +7 (or full gauge) is about 14psi

hope that helps

cheers,

Warren.

PS more info can be found in a search...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1303513
Share on other sites

they are good bleed valves.

i got mine for under $80 from autobahn. i m not sure what ur missing but its real easy to install...

pull the 2 hoses off ur stolinoid (spelling), there is a arrow on the controler, MAKE SURE you point this arrow to the wastgate actuator and then just plug the other 1 on the other side.

there is another way of doing it, 1 of the hoses connects to a T piece. remove the T and plug the hoses in, making sure that the arrow is goin to the wast actuator. then with the other hose left on the stol, you just block with a screw. i didnt use this method cuz i dont like the idea of having a hose just sitting there blocked. but its up to you.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1303854
Share on other sites

Just buy a boost gauge, by the looks of your sig you have heaps of mad parts on your car, im sure an extra $150 wont be too much for a gauge dude! PROBLEM SOLVED!

why does he need to buy a boost gauge? is he running more boost than the stock gauge shows (ie 14psi?)

i can't see any reason why he can't use the stock gauge...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1304442
Share on other sites

so taking that into consideration, + 3.5 (or half way on the gauge) is about 7psi and +7 (or full gauge) is about 14psi

Sweet man! I thought mine wasn't boostin' :)

So take a stock car for instance, nothing done to it, the stock gauge would only go up to +3.5? is that how it works?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1304569
Share on other sites

Just buy a boost gauge, by the looks of your sig you have heaps of mad parts on your car, im sure an extra $150 wont be too much for a gauge dude! PROBLEM SOLVED!

hahah mate im completely poor atm.. haha but yea im looking nito buying a hks direct bright or watever its called boost gauge.. but yeah all i need to find is the hose and allen key lol that shud be easy right?..

i think it will be hard to read on stock boost gauge cuz like its not very precise and u cud be running liek 13 instead of 10 haha.. and plus im gna be running 10psi all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1306560
Share on other sites

so should everyone go out and buy a new tacho, speedo, fuel gauge, and temperature gauge then??

its so stupid how everyone keeps saying 'buy a boost gauge' when the car bloody has one!

because the stock boost gauge is hard to read (it's very small) and the increments are quite coarse (small gauge movment=large change in boost pressure). they are also very slow to react. also there are numerous cases of the factory gauge giving incorrect readings.

i think it's a stupid idea to bump up the boost without an aftermarket gauge.

but everyone has their own opinion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1307064
Share on other sites

hey guys im a bit confused about the factory boost gauge i have a standard r32gtst and you guys say that the boost gauge should only read just over 3.5 half way on the factory boost gauge well mine goes right upto +7 and holds flat so maybe for boost than that?? any ideas?? way off topic sorry

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1317746
Share on other sites

hey guys im a bit confused about the factory boost gauge i have a standard r32gtst and you guys say that the boost gauge should only read just over 3.5 half way on the factory boost gauge well mine goes right upto +7 and holds flat so maybe for boost than that?? any ideas?? way off topic sorry

It means you are running around 1 bar of boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70621-gfb-bleed-valve/#findComment-1319175
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...