Jump to content
SAU Community

What date for the Go-Kart Day? Vote for more than 1 date if you like.


Recommended Posts

i voted the first weekend of the new year, becoz i couldnt think of a better way of spending the first weekend of 2003.

too much to organise in december, xmas and new years...save it till after is my vote...

cheers,

franks

A decision is going to have to be made soon on this guys ;)

Whoever is going to step and organise it, just choose one of the popular dates and run with it, otherwise if we keep waiting for one date to be a clear winner, it'll never get organised :P

I nominiate red900ss to make the date - since he is the oldest and wisest SAU exec of the ppl who who have posted so far (on this thread)

What ever date you make Dino there are two ways it can go for me - IN or OUT.

BTW, I nominated 1st or 2nd weeks in Jan (on a Sat or Sun)

PS - Maybe we should make it a Bikini Car Wash Day TOO - like the SAU guys did in WA - ( that's when some lovely young girls come down in bikinis and soap up your car) Young guys can be there for the SAU girls too (if required)

I vote for 5th of Jan lol it's my B'day............nop not really my g/f would disown me if i did went go-karting on my b'day! :uh-huh: Maybe the second w/end could be the best deal!!!!

BTW i am getting the "Corporate Pack" details sent to me in the next couple of days!!!!! So i will be able to inform you guys of the prices, and what u get for your money!!! I know 1 thing though i doubt we will be doing the all-day thing as thaht costs around $300 :eek:

I will basically be trying to get the best deal possible for around the $120-$140 mark??!!!!!:uh-huh: This okay!!!!

Then once the "pack" is determined i will have to get a date for this! I will find out if they are shut at any point!

Neways CATCH YAS

Ando

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
×
×
  • Create New...