Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the go with import prices atm? Espically GTRs, some of them are cheap as chips and still they seem to be forsale still!! Its crazy. You see R34 GTRs for a low 60grand, i remember just a few years ago they were like 80 grand+. What changed? Did the sudden influx in 15 y.o imports cause this? If so how come so many people ask 25 grand+ for a 15 y.o R32 gtr, yet I've seen R33 GTRs on this forum for as low as the low 30s, yet they still have troubles selling them. What changed in such a short time?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71092-import-prices-whats-the-go/
Share on other sites

The reason for this -> more imports are coming in to Australia.

As a result, we have plenty of cars, and plenty of sellers. Because of the 15 year rule, we had something like 15-20000 cars come in last year, and that has REALLY affected the market.

A lot of the cheaper vehicles (in terms of the 33 GTR's) are crap, high km/thrashed examples.

You can import a 99 34 GTR for as little as $55k

yeah but still I kind of feel for some people who paid 60 odd grand for a r33 gtr just 3 years ago and now you would be hard pressed to get high 30s for it unless you'd modified it a fair bit.

My question now is seeing there are so many R32 gtrs on the market right now why do they still ask high 20s low 30s for them? After all most of them are a damn old car now and are showing their age it some ways.

so its the sudden influx in importing that caused this? Is it the 15 year rule? Cause when i imported my R33 just a few months back Compliance were ringing me up asking if my car was ready cause they getting quiet on work.

i think u'll find most people bought the car at the time and have had an awesome time in it since then, aren't really worried about this, times change and so do car prices.......

and i dunno about everyone else but i buy a car with the intent of keeping it for ages, not as a 2-3 yr phase

something like that, since hte rule was introduced.

 

Figures could be off by a few thousand each way, but you get my point.

 

SEVS cars are quite low volume imports

What, since 15yo rule was introduced? Wasnt it YEARS and YEARS ago? So 20 000cars isnt that many over that space of time. But if it was just last year, yeah, thats a heapo cars.

ecause of the 15 year rule, we had something like 15-20000 cars come in last year, and that has REALLY affected the market

:bs!: there are not that many new 15 year cars on our roads, come on.. If there was that number they would be everywhere.

I'll be lucky to see any R32 in one given day, never mind a cefiro or any of the others.. it's possible there are a large number commercial vehicles, 4WD or something like that getting around I wouldn't have noticed - but not your general "sports type" import.

and i dunno about everyone else but i buy a car with the intent of keeping it for ages, not as a 2-3 yr phase

You'd probably be the rarity.. I'd say about 90% sell their import within the first 12-18 months of ownership. Some are lucky to see out even 6 months. There are not many "long term" import owners out there, who have owned the same car for more than about 2 years.

predator - I agree with your points about people keeping their imports.

The shortest I kept mine for wouldve been about 3 months. The longest about a year.

You are wrong about not seeing R32's etc around. Keep in mind there are a shitload that are still for sale, many are still at the docks here and in japan. You not only have 89 model skylines, but also 180sx, silvias, and other stuff like older pajero's. vans, porsches, etc. And other stuff that has come in from the states and europe etc, would also be classified under the 15 year rule.

So ultimately, yes, there are a shitload of older cars on our roads now. 15-20000 cars isnt really that much considering there probably would be around 10 million registered cars on our roads ?

I think the prices people are asking for R32 GTR's is a little excessive, 30K+ for a 89 model (with some mods) while you can pick up 92-94 for high 20's. People can no longer expect to get that kinda of money due to rise in supply which is slowly meeting demand.

15 year rule has brought down prices which is a good thing if you are buying but if bad if you selling...

If the 15 year rule was to remain "open" for another 2years we could all get Series 6 RX-7's for 20k and less!!! It would be just like the R32 GTR's massive influx, prices go down and heaps of kick ass rotors going around.

Without the 15 year rule most of us would still be driving (or thinking) VL-T or cordia's and imagine the prices of WRX's or even GSR lancers (GSR's still overpriced in my book).

Shame that the rule will change but at least their will be heaps of parts available, tuning packages and know how out there

My 2 cents

Tommyk

Where can i pick up a R34 GTR for 55k?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...