Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know how to convert PS into HP? I'm sure 280PS is 208Kw (I think). Anyway, just got back from the dyno day held at Speedworks and organised by the All 4 Wheels Car Club. Managed to pull 273.5PS @ 6608rpm on the rear wheels, using Speedworks new DynaPak dyno. The one where you unbolt your wheels and attach the dyno, meant to be extremely accurate. I duno where the ladies came from, but attached is a photo :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7116-dyno-day-speedworks-81202/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

BTW: I forgot to say:

Big Thanks go to Ivan and crew @ Speedworks for their help with my car and the dyno. And a Big Thanks goes to Brody from All 4 Wheels car club for organsing the day. And if anyone wants the full size pic of those chicks pm me your email address and I'll send it (its about 1.2mb) :D

Originally posted by skyzerr33

that works out to be about 270rwhp

good numbers dude but its gonna ruin any of your why didn't i run a 13sec 1/4 arguements as u have plenty grunt according to that figure.

True. But i still think i can run a 13.*something* i want to start playing with my tyre pressures.

Quite a few of the guys have it here now as well. Its a set of polyurethene bushes that slip into the craddle mounts on the rear, there are 3 settings; drift, traction and normal. Basically it adjusts the way power is transfered to the wheels. The drift setting allows less traction on the rear for better/stable drifting where as the traction allows for better traction when cornering and launching @ drags. Its a kit you can buy from whiteline (kca349 is the part number for r33 skylines) and with a car jack, good socket set and an hour or so you can fit it yourself. Definately worthwhile getting one if you intend on doing a bit of drag racing.

Skyzerr33,

I know what you mean by hard compounds, I have a set of 265's on the back of mine, so I could go drag racing on Wednesday. Well what a waste of time, should have stuck to the 235's, they were much stickier. The 265's are hard as rock, and therefore not much grip even being wider. I still think that changing tyre pressure will be marginal, but if it works for you then cool.

Has anyone changed the camber of the rear wheels in order to get better traction. After I lowered the rear of my car and have about 2deg of negative camber. I am planning on dialling it back to neutral, has anyone done this?

See'ya:burnout:

Dude, that is a pretty huge dyno readout, 270 rwhp without any sort of management, your car must be a freak.

With the pineapples, if it makes things clearer, the drift setup firms up the back end, the drag setup promotes squat, and the track setup is between the two from memory - hope this helps.

Skyzerr33,

Thanks for clearing that up, cheers mate.

Rob77,

I didn't say it didn't work for him, but I was told in general that it was a waste of time. Does anyone else run low pressures? If so what pressure and what tyres are they on?

See'ya :burnout:

GTS-t VSPEC,

to carry on from skyzerr, you can use the fat ones at the front with skinny ones at the rear (promote squat), skinny ones at front with fat ones at rear (drifto madness), or just use the skinny ones for in between (hope I got them the right way). They come with fitting instructions anyway. If you are getting any work done to your car involving putting it on a hoist, just pop in and chuck em on while she is up, they are dead easy to do, just a bit more difficult if you have to stuff around with a car jack:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...