Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Pen Turbo timer - A/F tune?

Hawker180
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted

Hey just trying to get the Air/fuel ratio close on my car so i can drive it to the tuner (4 hours drive :D )

I understand the Apexi turbo timers is just an estimate but is there a way to get it close enough so i can drive my car to get it tuned, trailering it is out of the option too!

How do you set up the O2 voltage my car at idle reads 1020v (on the power FC) theres no 1020v setting on the APexi TT!!!!!

Can anyone help me out???

Thanks

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71307-apexi-pen-turbo-timer-af-tune/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the 02 reads between 0.00mv and 0.10mv or 1.00mv. I think you are referring the airflow meter value? AF in the sensor display is airflow meter and it will be around 1.00volts at idle (its max value is 5.00volts). The pen timer needs to have its wire tapped into the cars ecu loom (02 wire which is oxygen sensor not airflow meter). once that is doen you can with handbrake pulled up move to a/f o/2 on the timer press right and then it will show theoritical value then press left, move up to a/f, press right and it will show a/f and then flash to oxygen sensor value and then back again. once its working when you move the timer to display a/f instead of it showing --- and light changing from green/red constantly it will show like 18.5 or higher at idle and "green" for lean and then when you drive it should hover around 13.0 ish and god mixed between orange and red for rich. if you still have --- no matter what make sure when you move the timer to display oxygen (the 2nd item of the four) it has a value and the value is changing all the time, thats the oxygen sensor value. if its 0 or --- then its not wired in correctly or the 02 sensor is dead. they die after about 50,000 k ish

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I understand its unaccurate, but i thought i could at least get it close! That doesnt help me out though!!!

Anyone got any ideas on how to get a close read out??? as 4 hours is along way to drive when the cars either rich or lean! i dont wanna damage it on the way there!

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Ok i understand now.

You have upgraded the injectors.

Therfore the standard ecu won't run it (it will overfuel by a mile)

However, in the powerFC, there is an option which will trim the entire base map to suit larger injectors, without changing every parameter. (Have to do a search, im not familiar with the powerfc, to find what setting you have to change)

If you don't change this, it will overfuel with the bigger injectors, the same as what will happen with the stock ecu.

Do you have the Turbo Timer wired up to the O2 sensor at all?

If it is wired up it will give the feedback from the standard "Narrow Band" O2 sensor.

However i wouldn't use this sensor to tune, its highly innacurate at anything but stoich ratio's.

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep the stock computer runs very rich, very very rich as the injectors are upgraded!

yeah i have changed the whole map in the Power FC so that it is close, but all i did was change the injector flow down untill it stoped belching black smoke out the exhaust!

On the power FC i had to bump the injector flow down to 44% (base map is 100%) as it was overfueling!

The timer is wired up to the 02 sensor (exhaust sensor) im getting a readout but it says like 12.8 and then i read that you can alter the setting of the O2 read out, something-arother about depending on the voltage of the o2 senser!

If i have the car running rich (like as close as i can tell, by bumping the whole flow up and down) would it be fine to drive???? can any harm happen from running the car rich?

My cars been out of action for 5 months now, so as you can imagine im itching to get it tuned and back on the road...My R31 just doesnt cut it :rofl:

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

If you have the maps trimmed down so they are close, what you will find is under light load driving (i.e off boost) it will be running in closed loop operation and maintaining a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 and your plugs won't foul.

(Closed loop is where the ecu uses the feedback from the 02 sensor to trim the injector pulse to keep a stoich ratio, minimising emissions and maximising economy)

So if you drive under that condition, it should be fine.

If it were a brand new motor just rebuilt, i would advise against running it rich as the rings won't bed properly and this needs to happen in the first few hundred km's of driving.

If the motor has just had bolt ons applied, i wouldn't worry to much.

Just drive it offboost so it can run in closed loop and your plugs wont foul.

If you boost it and the plugs foul, you may not get the car there without removing and cleaning them.

Not a job you really want to do on the side of the road.

Elithrar Rising Star

Elithrar

Posted
Posted

Running it a little rich is safer than having it lean out; I suppose, at the worst, you'll just foul your 'plugs up a bit and lose a bit of power on the run there. The former is easily fixed, and the latter is basically redundant as you're getting it tuned anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...