Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, as the thread title suggests, I f#cked my clutch.

The day started off pretty good with some low 14's and high 13's.

Then I managed to pull a 13.7, my new best!!:D

But then, due to peer presure I entered the burnout comp to show the front wheel drive panzies how its done. My car was smokin up but it wasn't my tyres.;)

I made it about 50 metres up rockingham road before my car just stopped.

My old man just tow'd me home in his jag.

I ain't too pleased, but I got my 13.74!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7134-137-and-a-fcked-clutch/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hicks,

I'm sure I've told you before that jap cars aren't designed to do burnouts, leave that to the V8 boys, there cars are only good for burnouts.

I am sorry that you stuffed your clutch but it shouldn't be too expensive to fix, I think you can get the factory one fixed for about $250 at the Clutch Factory.

If your after a stronger clutch, as this will likely happen again with the new power, then I can get you a twin-plate or heavy duty clutch pretty cheap.

The old clutch burnout would have really impressed the V8 guys, they were probably having a good chuckle at your expense.

Consider this an expensive lesson in how to treat your car. I guess I won't be racing you on Wednesday night then!

See'ya:burnout:

Well that's the right attitude, normally people blow 2 or 3 factory clutches before making the decision to move, which I'm sure Macka will have to do soon aswell. I'll ring my mate on Monday, I know he has a Nismo 5-puck at the moment, which might be enough for your car, but I'll find out which twins he has and the price.

I'd suggest you sell that flash stereo you bought and go for a decent clutch, your bound to have more fun with that.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeah I did the same thing to mine, without the burnout of course, and it definately does stink. I was joking about selling the stereo.

A factory one repaired would let you limp around for a bit longer, but you wouldn't want to race the car too hard. It depends on whether you can get the funds, maybe an early Christmas present from the folks?

See'ya:burnout:

I doubt it.

It was ****ed today before the burnout, the burnout just put it out of its mysery. If I didn't do it, I doubt it would of lasted the drive home.

Oh well, Shit happens.:whackit: (im aware this has nothing to do with anything, but its f#ckin funny!)

$830 or there abouts depending on your exhaust setup for Ross @ Perth Autoclutch to put in a 2500pound pressure plate and 9 finger clutch plate. If you want to see pics of it, find rev210's post about his ogura flywheel as he put the same clutch in as well with his new flywheel. Works great, no slip, just a bit stiffer to drive.

Rob

Autoclutch is the place to go for a new clutch mate.

I have the 9 button ceramic clutch and I kept my old stock pressure plate.

The take up is lovely for a button clutch, I've never seen anything like it! As usual (for button clutches) the clutch friction point is closer to the floor but it feels as soft as the stocker without the slippage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...