Turbo Upgrade - install woes? SAFC?

[gatty]

hey guys

Mate just bought:

ITS TURBOCHARGER FOR SKYLINE R32/R33 GTS-T  

COMPLETE KIT INCLUDING ALL WATER AND OIL LINES AND DRAIN. BOLTS STRAIGHT ON TO FACTORY MANIFOLD & DUMP PIPE. GOOD FOR APPROXIMATELY 260KW AT THE WHEELS

from UAS - R33 auto - stock internals - BLITZ FMIC - cat back system - boost controll - POD, other than that it's stock. This turbo is T3 flange and will bolt straight up with little modifications etc etc

Once we get this thing on (he wants to do it) would it be right to run at about 5-10 PSI without some type of tuning? or should it be tuned right away kinda thing? He's planning on getting a SAFC or similar type thing such as unichip but should it be right to run as is?

We need to drive it atleast 100km's to the nearest dyno/tuner etc and it comes nex week so just wanting to see whats going to happen when we bolt this on, connect it up and start it - any other steps need to be done?

[cameron]

I would recomend doing a dump pipe, this will give you an increase in spooling and horsepower.

10psi will be fine, but don't go anything over that if you want it to last:)

[The Dan]

Just hook up the actuator line with no bleeder attached. You will have no problems running standard boost on this engine. The fuel reg will compensate for the rising pressure so it shouldn't be a problem. Just take it easy. Don't get all excited and put your boot into it first go. One or two detonations and say goodbye to your engine and pistons. Is the turbo going onto a non-turbo engine or onto an already turbo engine that he is upgrading?

Wind all windows up and turn stereo off. When you accellerate you will clearly hear if the engine is pinging. Just baby it around until the tune is done. My advise is also wait until the SAFC is fitted before you get the tune done. Just check the usuals. Make sure the oil supply line is connected correctly. Make sure the oil supply line where it bolts into the block has a VERY small hole where the oil travels otherwise you will lose oil pressure. Make sure the water and oil lines are all tight. Run the car for a good fifteen minutes and keep a close eye on the lines to make sure you get no leaks. Also try running with the dump pipe detached for that fifteen minutes so that you can see what the shaft is doing at idle and while revving. It should all spin freely. Air intake is also critical. If it is going onto a non-turbo then the intake will be different. If it is going onto an already turbo car, make sure it is the right size to fit the turbo. DO NOT compromise when it comes to this. Small amounts of dirt and sand can have devastating effects on turbos. Make sure the air is filtered by any means possible. When you first start the car, try leaving the oil supply line loose so that you know for sure that oil is getting to the turbo. This is crutial! If no oil is getting to the turbo you need to find out why. It should be ok and it might make a bit of a mess but it is far better to know then to find out the hard way.

Call me on 0419 770 716 if you have any dramas or need some verbal assistance.

[gatty]

thanks for the replies

car is a series 1 GTST - the stock turbo went so he bought this one

the turbo he bought uses the stock oil/water lines - same flange etc so we'll be bolting it up then attaching lines and giving it a start with boost control set to 0 then see how it all goes

and about the dumppipe thats coming later

[Wazz]

i'd be upgrading that fuel pump straight away...

[cameron]

i'd be upgrading that fuel pump straight away...

What for?

Are you telling me 10psi is too much on stock fuel system, then why are you running 14psi through you'rs?

[gatty]

he'll only be running 10PSI - 15 would be absolute max