Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It has come to my attention that I am not paticularly au fait with gaskets and gasket goop.

Perhaps people could state only for things they know for sure the following.

What items were you bolting together.

What type of gasket did you use.

What is the gasket made of.

What kind of goop did you use and why.

If no goop, explain why this particular job requires no goop.

Any tips or tricks to the job?

Ok, I'll start.

I bolted the pan onto the bottom of the transmission.

I reused the old gasket because it was stuck quite well to the pan from when I took it off.

Don't know what it's made of but it looked like black thin cardboard.

I used Permatex No.3 (Actually I used Locktite No.3 but was told it is the same thing) because the auto transmission place told me to. They said it's a wet one that never hardens. The packet says you can use it on threads and still get them off later.

I'm interested to hear about cam cover jobs and oil drain pipe on the turbo.

Perhaps also, people who want to know what to use on a particular job could post a query in this thread which give some focus to the experts rather than just generally asking about gaskets and goop.

Anyone got any links to goop sites?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71559-gaskets-and-gasket-goop/
Share on other sites

im unsure if this post is a question or a statement???

are you asking what youshould be using or what??

here is a list on what gaskets and liquad gaskets i used putting my rb20det back together

1..the sump-- no geniunne gasket-- used ultra blue (maxx blue by loctite) engine turned upside down old gasket scraped off with blade or use gasket remover make sure all gasket removed use wet dry sand paper and inox to sand off any left over gasket wipe dry and cleanbead the ultra blue round the sump smear and bolt back to the engine

2.. oil filter adaptor to block-- genuinne nissan gasket paper-- used aviation cement--scrap off old gasket with blade sand the surface back with wet dry, clean, apply aviation cement to both sides of the paper gasket and sealin place and bolt back to block

3..thermastat--gennuine nissan paper--aviation cement-- same as above

4..water pump--no genuinne gasket--ultra blue-- same as sump

5..all water and oil fitting to the block ei..oil lines water lines ect...--used a product called "STAG" jointing paste-- clean all threads dry and apply the paste to the threads with minimum amout possible,screw to the block, why not thread tape well you can but found this alot more reliable can be used for all oil, water, air, and gas, fittings also steam, kero, beverage and foodstuffs

6..plenum--genuinne nissan paper--clean all surfaces and dry, bolt together

7..inlet manifold-- genuinne nissan paper--same as above

8..exhaust manifold--gen nissan--metal compressed gasket--bolt the same as inlet

9..head gasket--gen nissan metal compressed--clean as before must be dry and oil freeplace on dowels to line the gasket up bolt on head and tighten in correct sequence to correct factory specs

10..cam shaft seals--has to be gen nissan--PBR rubber cemant--clean same as all above--applt rubber cement inside and out side seals push over cam shaft tap into place with over sized socket rub engine oil over them to pre lub them

11..half moon seals--gen nissan rubber-- same as above with rubber cement and oil

12..cam cover gakets--gen nissan rubber--same as above

umm thats bout all i can think off

any questions???

That the kind of thing I was after. Thanks for that.

It was both a question and a statement. I hope to make a reference thread for gaskets because whenever I am bolting something together I've never been sure what type of goop to use and what type of gasket.

With my current knowledge I couldn't hope to build an engine like you have so for people like me, things like gasket goop threads can help.

hey mate i work at bunnings, but my passion is cars im hoping at the start of next year i can move and start mech engineering so the things i know from one of my best friends who is a mech and has been for the last 10 years and would never second guess him, im just glad i have a friend who is willing to teach me and show me everything so im glad to pass it on aswell

most gaskets in cars are going to be the same principle as most of the engine gaskets seps

like it just depends on what the factory use, the substance its sealing and the force it has on the area. for eg you wouldnt use a paper gasket as a head gasket thats just common sense

and sometimes you just have to make shit up like the dump pipe gasket i had to make, common sense says to use the same material as the exhaust manifold gasket so had to buy a sheet from repco and cut it up!!!

things like that are simple

  • 2 years later...

anyone know how to cut gasket material (perforated steel with card inside it)???

like how do you cut out the hole for say and exhaust? holesaw? tinsnips are useless for trying to cut the 'inside' out.

Oil drain pipe on the turbo has a gasket with no gasket goo. It is an oil resistant paper.

You can either make your own or buy one from nissan for a couple bucks (no point making your own).

Throttle bodies - different manufacturers recommend different products. My ford uses gasket goo (loctite black max). I used thickish gasket paper instead - worked the treat and much neater.

Cam covers - nissan gasket. No gasket goo required. Gasket goo is required on the bottom of the half moons.

GREAT THREAD! I am doing a RB25det conversion on my r32 gts4. Just got back from the nissan dealer half an hour ago and purchased a few gaskets that i could remember i needed off the top of my head. I have to go back there to get the rest that i need later.

I didnt buy the gasket goo they have thier as it was very expensive and the dealer actually told me i can get similar stuff else where for much cheaper.

Also i just searched for tech articles for applying gasket goop and found nothing. Someone experienced should make a tech article on how to prep and apply this stuff properly with photo's. I will take photo's and document the process i go through when doing mine but this will be my first time using the stuff so it probably wont be the best tech article.

ok The only sealants i use are RTV:

ULTRA BLACK, ULTRA GREY or THREEBOND

ULTRA GREY for any sumps, water housings etc (same as OEM use) as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

THREEBOND make the shit for nissan the orange stuff. Killer gear just looks shit on a engine build worth 10k :)

HYLOMAR SPRAY Perfect for HKS/GREDDY TOMEI metal intake gaskets etc and if your a fanatic it can be used on metal head Gaskets also

i prefer to use the permatex RTV gear. I take alot of pride in the engines i build so i like them to look good (stupid i know but they offer diff colours and it suites me, nothing worse than bolting together a killer setup only to have orange or red goop hanging out every join or gap....) and best of all they never leak or weep. this gear has NEVER let me down.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotiv...sket_makers.htm

post-34927-1185430611_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1185430621_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1185430633_thumb.jpg

So the only difference between ultra grey and ultra black is the colour? Im not fussed at all by what colour the goops are... aslong as they do the job right. I noticed that orange goop stuff has been used on my old intake plenum as a sealant as well as one of the paper gaskets...

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

So to do this, you place rubber gaskets in place then squeeze ultra black goop around the top of the rubber gaskets then bolt the covers back on over the top?

So to do this, you place rubber gaskets in place then squeeze ultra black goop around the top of the rubber gaskets then bolt the covers back on over the top?

Nah only little beads in sharp corners, near the half moons for example.

Pretty sure they tell you wat is the intended use for each of those products.

Im no mechanic, Just a hobby for me :). on engines Ive built. I use;

Ultra Blue, - on water fittings, housings and gaskets.

Ultra Black, for Oil fittings, sump. rocker covers or with existing rubber seals.

Silastic *Black - If I were going to not use seals or rubber gaskets for an application.

Permetex No.3 - Things that are for oil but use paper gaskets with small fine gap.

Locktight 268 - for threads.

I normally will just use OEM or aftermarket gaskets on fuel or air items, no liquid gasket adhesive.

ok The only sealants i use are RTV:

ULTRA BLACK, ULTRA GREY or THREEBOND

ULTRA GREY for any sumps, water housings etc (same as OEM use) as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

THREEBOND make the shit for nissan the orange stuff. Killer gear just looks shit on a engine build worth 10k :stupid:

HYLOMAR SPRAY Perfect for HKS/GREDDY TOMEI metal intake gaskets etc and if your a fanatic it can be used on metal head Gaskets also

i prefer to use the permatex RTV gear. I take alot of pride in the engines i build so i like them to look good (stupid i know but they offer diff colours and it suites me, nothing worse than bolting together a killer setup only to have orange or red goop hanging out every join or gap....) and best of all they never leak or weep. this gear has NEVER let me down.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotiv...sket_makers.htm

hey hey hey, you have a pic of ultra blue but don't mention it...?? am i missing something. i was gonna use ultra blue on my water pump it 'sounds' as if that's acceptable??

Whilst on this subject.

Im finding that , gaskets I need for this RB25DET only OEM available thru Nissan, been to repco and a few others, and acl parts lists, does not have listings for the gaskets I need.

Exhaust mainfold gasket

Intake Manifold GAsket

Intake Sandwich Gasket (the one inbetween the 2 halfs of the intake manifold)

Nissan prices are insane. its looking like im going to have to use them or use Gasket goop.

Anyone know where to get other ones?

MD SPARES in VIC are the best import engine gasket co in AUS, i use all their gear on rebuilds as many of the gaskets are actually genuine. They also have many parts like lifters, pumps, oil rotor sets etc...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...