Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

(i tried to keep it short) I was driving the other day when my engine suddenly cut out and all the warning lights were on. No sound of a bang, just as if the engine switched off.

I pulled on the side of the road and then noticed white smoke coming out of the drivers side from the bonnet, which i expected the engine had overheated, not that it showed up on the temp gauge.

After waiting for it to cool down I noticed the coolant was very low and my radiator had no water!!! I topped it up with water and waited for awhile and tried to start the engine. Nothing.

As i turn the ignition all I can hear is the starter motor but the engine is not responding. I had the car towed to the mechanics and am still waiting on the diagnostics.

What do you think is wrong with my R32?

- Blown Head Gasket? (i hope)

- Cooked Head?

Anyone who knows what it might be or experienced the same please let me know.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71601-blown-head-in-r32/
Share on other sites

i had similar problem like yours...but not as bad as yours (still drivable....just need to keep an eye on the temp gauage and top up the radiator with coolant or water).....i just drop my car to a workshop....i think it might be the head gasket...or even a cracked head..coz of internal leaking....man....it's gonna to cost me around 2k to fix it if it is the head.....keep fingers crossed....will know the answer sometime tomorrow and good luck to you~~~!!!

well i got the call from the mechanics and they said its a head gasket... however he reckons that even its a head gasket he may have to bore the engine.... he also reckons theres a chance that the head has warped. just my luck :)

he's going to call me back with options and price figures. do you's think i should bother getting the head reconditioned or go for a new engine? if a new engine would a RB25DET engine be similar instead of a new RB20DET engine? Also any rough price estimates would be good.

cheers

Headgasket, so you have to bore the engine??? Doesn't make sense.

He means rebuild the engine and bore it out or???

My opinion IF the motor needs to be rebuilt..

Grab a R32 RB25DE, throw a thicker headgasket in there and drop the motor in, bolt up all your RB20DET stuff and it will run.

Literally, the ONLY!!!!!! bolt on part you will need from the rb25de is the inlet manifold, use the rb20det inlet plenum (that sits on the inlet manifold).

Get the ecu remapped or drop a PowerFC in there and enjoy more torque and more power with less boost. :)

That will probably be the cheapest way around it.

If you go the R33 RB25DET it will cost more outright and you will have to spend money on wiring mods to get the rb25det up and running.

Well i didnt catch everything he said, because i was in class. But from what i remember is that he done a pressure test and i have certainly blown a head gasket. Then he mentioned about the boring out something, then a head being warped, however this was his assumption without even physically opening the engine. So do you think it could just be a gasket?

The suggestion of the RB25DE head sounds good, has anyone done it before? Would it be cheaper than getting a new RB20DET engine?

cheers

Shouldnt need to bore out the cylinders if you've blown a head gasket :confused:

When he takes the head off he can get it planed and they check to see if it's warped or not

I doubt you'll need a new engine if you've done your headgasket mate :)

The R33 RB25DE N/A appears to be $1000.

R32 RB25 'should' be slightly cheaper. When I priced my RB25DE head up I remember I could have had a complete long motor for $900.

The beauty of the R32 RB25DE it simply is a bolt in, all plugs and wires match.

The Injectors are even the same as the RB20DET. :)

The mechanic has to give you the two options because he really can't see the extent of the damage without removing the head- so step one is removing the head.

1) Headgasket

2) Headgasket but may have gotten too hot before you realized (esp applies to chicks who drive till it stops) & slightly warped head.

Either way its a pretty expensive exercise because its a fair amount of labour to remove the head.

Fingers crossed but its important the mechanic checks coolant/oil hoses to check if thats what caused the problem in the first place.

Cheers,

Penfold

i got the call back and the two options given to me were:

1. Replace the head gasket & if the damage is serious recondition the head, bore?, spark plugs, oil filter + labour for $2200 (will be cheaper if not bad...but i doubt it)

or

2. Replace the engine with a second hnd RB20DET motor + labour for $3300

so what do you guy's reckon? money is kind of an issue here coz im a poor uni student, however i dont want any problems later on with the engine, eg. unwanted noises, faults. etc.

any comments would be good,

Cheers

there can be many reasons why you have lost compression

1 yes the haed gasket let go...easy new head gasket then get a second opinion on the head take it to engine builder will cost $100 this will tell you the condition of the head trust me itll save you big time if there is nothin wrong also if there is it can be acuratly pin pointed not just a mechanics guess

2 yes a warped head ...get it decked but make sure it is warped refer to option 1

3 cracked ring...this will require a bore and a oversized piston i think the next oversize piston is 78.5mm or get a re sleeve us same size pistons

4 or a cracked piston skirt whch means bottom end in pieces

5 this can on forever and some things you wont want to hear as these are very unlikley basically work your way from the cheapest option and work backwards

these probs can be very stressfull unless your mechanic is whilling to co-opperate and help you out rather than rip you off after all its all customer service and if your not happy with the chef you dont eat at his reatuarant!!!!

get my jist

  • 2 weeks later...

the mechanics started on the engine on the weekend and said the engine was cooked! warped head, fried piston rings :D (i guess you'd expect that when the engine wasn't being cooled whilst doin 180)

so i had to go for the next option which was to get a new engine put in which they said should be ready by this week...can't wait walking sux and theres alot of weirdo's on public transport.

yeah i did consider it, a new engine original RB20DET which is ready to go is going to set me $3000...and i mentioned RB25 and the mechanic said he would have to source one and would cost an additional 1k

...in my situation rite now im pretty tight on money so im pretty happy just to get back my car...(when walking and public transport is the only means of transport, im pretty desperate to drive anything)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...