Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A little background info.

2001 R34 GTX-T, Bilstein Shocks, Whiteline Springs, Rear Whiteline Camber Kit, Yokohama A539's.

I was changing oil tonight and found the front tyres (the right in particular) are wearing more on the inside edge. The right one appears to be almost worn flat on the inside edge??

I was advised by friends with similar suspension mods and by Fulcrum that a front camber kit wasn't necessary?? If this is the case, why are my fronts wearing down so quickly?

Note, have not been to any track days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71857-inner-edge-wearing/
Share on other sites

I had a 2x rear whiteline camber kits fitted by Fulcrum 2 days after I fitted the Bilstein/Whiteline Suspension with a mate.

They also carried out a full 4 wheel alignment and 4 wheel balance.

This was about 2 1/2 months ago.

Abo Bob> I can't find the settings, but Fulcrum have agreed to take a look and fix whatever the problem might be. They said that they may have wrongly adjusted something. Good service if you ask me.

GTR_Legend> I can't remember all of the differences. The ones I can remember are that it has a upgraded stereo system, and also it is a newer model revision, mine being a little rarer as it is a 2001 GTX-T. I believe it also has the Garrett BB turbo, but I am yet to confirm this. Here is a link with all the different skyline models. It is in Russian, but you can use Babel to get a rough translation.

http://www.j-car.ru/catalog/nissan-skyline-139.shtml

:D

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,

so thats different to your setup,,, now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

Front camber kits are generally not required unless you have bent something. You will notice that on the whiteline web page they only ever list the front camber kits for skylines as optional or for club/track use. The front suspension geometry doesn't get as badly effected by lowering as the rear. Suspension for the 33s and 34s is basically the same with only a minor shock mounting change to the rear.

I have always set my GTST and GTR like this:-

Front

camber -1.5deg to -2.0deg

toe in/out 0

caster as much as I can get....

currently 5.5deg on the GTR and about 8.0 on GTST

Rear

camber -1.0 deg

toe in/out slightly in, maybe 1mm to 1.5mm each side

These setting seem to work well, I have never had a problem with uneven tyre wear on the road or track.....

Hope that helps.

P.S. The rear does have some factory camber adjustment, you may find this is enough but it wasn't for me in either the GTR of GTST. The front does not have any camber adjustment but after lowering the GTST sedan its camber was right on -1.5deg each side which was perfect for me and the GTR I fitted a front camber kit as I go overkill on everything with it :wassup:

Fulcrum apparently said that everything was as they left it, so I'm not sure. As JL mentioned it could have been due to bending something, but that hasn't happened as far as I know.

My settings are pretty much what JL mentioned as he is the one who fitted all my suspension bits except for the rear camber kit, Fulcrum did that.

My thoughts are for the couple a hundred I can get the front camber kit and be done with it.

Piece of mind ...... maybe overkill but who cares.

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,    

so thats different to your setup,,,  now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it. If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber. Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it.  If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber.   Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time. The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out. That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)

OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time.  The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out.  That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)
OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all. We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

The car will be out of action for a couple of weeks, but as soon as I get the figures I will post them.

Thanks for the feedback. :thankyou:

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all.  We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

Run your hand across the worn part of the tyre, if feels a bit furry when you run it across at a certain angle it is due to "feathering" which on the inside of the tyre would be due to excessive toe out. Lowering the suspension of the car will give the car more negative camber. Think about it. As the suspension lowers and the tyre moves farther up the guard, the lower control arm pushes in at the base of the wheel and produces more negative camber. The solution: raise your suspension again or buy a camber kit (in order for it to be adjustable)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...