Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I have a k&n pod filter on my r33 gtst. Its sucking hot air from the engine bay. It has a partion around it to reduce this, but I want to duct cold air from the front bumber. I have a standard intercooler. Has anybody else done this? Where can u get piping through to get to the pod? Would I have to cut holes through metal?

Regards,

Dan

dan_the_man,

I've got to agree with Steve, do the FMIC, it will make much more difference, then use the hole for the factory IC as the intake for the CAI. Most people tend to use the flexible silver tubing as the intake runner, but can be done with PVC, just spray it to make it look less shit.

See'ya :burnout:

a 3" holesaw will go through the metal in 10seconds. just drill a hole, then feed your pipe through. you can get hose/pipe from any hose distributor, i got mine from IHF in welshpool for $20. black - flexible. cant say it made much of a performance difference but if you want to do it, takes about 15minutes all up

Have had a partition done and that definately made a difference, mainly after sitting in traffic or on hot days the throttle response was alot crisper, alot closer to when the car is first started in the morning. A duct, at the cost of only a few dollars, couldn't hurt, and is supposed to give a better top end as well - only to the tune of a few kilowatts but better than nothing.

Just my 0.02c

Steve

I too am a bit faint hearted, just run 10lb standard, but have been known to crank it up to 12.5 (0.85bar) when its a bit cooler.

The reason being, that when in traffic, I think I am getting a bit of heat soak through the coola piping, so she tends to ping a bit on higher boost settings during the day when it warms up. Also waiting on a Z32 AFM so that I can get a better tune, then might try upping the boost a bit more.

Steve

It don't make a lot of sense to me. If the coola is big enough, it shouldn't matter what temp air is going into it, by the time it gets out of the intercooler it should be around 20-30 deg anyway.... right??:confused:

I think what I'm trying to say is that a cold air intake will only reduce the load off the coola, which isn't gonna produce a real power gain...

riggaP,

The intake temperature will dramatically effect the temperature going into the plenum, thats why everyone tries to reduce the hot air going in, either via a CAI or vented bonnet etc.

Imagine its a 30deg day, if you have no CAI and engine air goes into the cooler at 45deg, even with a big cooler you wont get the temp down much past 32deg. On the other hand if the 30deg air goes in the temp could go down to 24deg. Although it doesn't sound like alot it can make a big difference, cooler air carries more fuel which means more power, and the car is less likely to ping.

Big intercoolers are great but will not cure high intake temperatures, minimising the intake temperature is the best way.

See'ya:burnout:

totally agreed:D

or we just leave the air alone and put the cooler in the freezer every night and served chilled in da morinig:D jk

guys, as you would saw my thread, i need a new turbo.

do you think i should get a GT28 400hp? bolts on to the stock manifold.

ron

Why are you changing your turbo? What other mods do you have? Where do you expect to be getting spool up? What is the car being used for? What are your future power plans?

sorry to be asking so many questions, but I think it is important to get things in perspective otherwise any opinions would probably be no better than a yes or no answer:)

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...