Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to add something - there are many more differences between export C110's and the domestic GT-R than those mentioned above! Most are pretty subtle, but some are substantial - e.g. the GT-R had rear disc brakes.

Good luck with your project, I have tried to go the right way and get the most authentic parts possible, but it is not easy. Still searching for C110 rear quarter "GT" badges... GT-R bucket seats???? Worth more than a 240K - per seat.

Tom, I think the SR makes a lot of sense. As you probably have noticed the engine sits fairly forward in the C110 and it does suffer from understeer unless you provoke it into oversteer... I can imagine handling might improve with a 4-pot, but we'll have to see what Mikey says first :)

my lil daily driver revs quite nicely in the RB20DE with extractors. Looked into getting triple side draft's in, but it requires a AFM to MAP sensor setup, which is a bit of a shit. Guys I've spoken to who've built the N/A engines up (predominantly in japan and one in malaysia) prefer to use an RB26 single intake individual throttle body setup, with an adapter, which is now available over the counter at some stores for about $700.

I reckon an SR20DE out of an S15 would be a better solution, from memory Nissan released a limited edition that did more power than the turbo version out of the factory.

I'm also writing up an article on a Jap made RB30DE engine which does a higher top speed and more power than a stock RB26DETT. Might be worth a read.

Thanks for the help guys...will keep you posted on what we come up with. Would love to keep it n/a to keep that old school theme all round.

Hi there/ My name is Prince (Ray). I dont get on the site often. However have been watching the reply's in relation to the KPGC110. I have one of the origonal. It is Vinned as a GT-R. In fact it was a GT-X2000.

I run a RB20 with tripple Webers. Someone said they are dogs. Wrong they are Sleepy dogs and it goes. My 2 door has most of the things that you are trying to emulate. The open front grille, the tail-lights are completely different to the Ausie 240K body. The dash and console is polished aluminium as some one said. It has 4 wheel disc brakes and rear stabilizer. Rear spoiler, factory over-fenders. (as some people think that the #43 as in Prince Museum that it has the origonal fenders they are WRONG as they were for the factory race cars only. They had 8 inch front and 9 inch rear. As a matter of fact mein rnus factory 6 inch front and 7 inch rear. Don't think you can fit them as they actually had to cut away the outer lip to the rear guards, hence the over-fender. The track at the rear is 98mm wider than the standard 240K as we see them. I have now gathered over the last few years cd's and video's from Nostalgic Hero's that show the cars in their glory. Also the battery is not on the drivers side as is in the 240K. I have fitted the RB20 to 4 and 5 speed gearbox's out of the 1973 model. The four speed is a much stronger box and the ratios are also better. The motor runs on a EMS computer. The origonal tacho also works of the RB20 as do all the gauges. I have a S20 motor and am waiting for a mate of mine to bring back some parts and that will go in. If you have ever seen the engine bay of a KPGC110 GT-R 1973 then you would be hard pressed to pick the difference except for the module to the front of the motor for the timing. Oh yeh it has distributer and coil with the plug leads into the top centre between the cam covers.

I can possibly help with information if you require. I also have origonal paperwork, body and mechanical manuals (although they are in Japanese) for the GT-R. Maybe you could contact me

Regards Prince. Oh the Prince stands for another car I treasure a Prince Skyline GTB 1966.

  • 2 weeks later...

ohh guys also whoever is thinking of putting the flares on your kgc110 or 240k's the japanese whole rear guards are differnt to the aussies. and if you want to put the flares on you will have to cut out quite alot

cheers guys.

and our rb25de tripple webber conversion is going ahead preety well. we now need to find a set of 44 or 45 webers mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm webbers and then a twin 2 inch exaughst

cyas

have a read of this guys - found on the classic z cars forum...

http://justmurph.com/classiczcar/kpgc110roadtest.pdf

I think its 2.9MB

its a road test and other stuff from magazines and newspapers. Pretty rare to have an english language reveiw of a Japanese Domestic Market only model like the C110 GT-R.

hey guys... ray is difenately the man to talk to... i have seen his c110 and a meet i went to last year. its one sweet superbeast sleeeper............ by the way ray... Giday... from pete with the purple prince gt........

ohh guys also whoever is thinking of putting the flares on your kgc110 or 240k's the japanese whole rear guards are differnt to the aussies. and if you want to put the flares on you will have to cut out quite alot

That's right! get out your angle grinder and your welder!

How'd you go with lowering the rear, Lachlan? Any dramas with tyres rubbing on the guards?

Hi mate, lowering went well - wouldn't want it any lower (maybe 1cm at the front though :crazy: and I was left with camber that would make a Japanese drifter proud. The rears JUST rub when you corner really hard. It's a pity, but I'm not too worried. Just wish they listened to me in the first place! :)

Any progress on yours Peter?

Slowly stripping it, and accumulating parts for it. Now have front brakes mostly sorted, new front struts (sold the old ones to Jeff), and have a pair of turbos for it.

In the midst of some major changes on the personal front (might be going to USA for 6 months, as well as looking at building a new house) so the K will have to take a back seat for several months.

Still have to get around to sending the wheels down to you. Haven't had a chance to get time off work for a while.

Lachlan: Looks better now it's lowered. If the excess camber causes problems, it can be remedied with a few small mods (as per my earlier PM's to you).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...