Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Sorry if this has been posted before.. i've tried multiple searches but cant find anything..

Just wanted to know whats stock boost for an r32 gtst?

I currently have a slightly modded r32 gtst and would like to know what stock boost is, and also how much the turbo could handle, on a cold night, without turbine failure.. i.e. safely.

Mods include - 3" exhaust (need to check up whether its a turbo back or cat back), pod filter and EBC.

Its currently running .8 bar boost which is about.. 11 - 12 PSI..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72253-stock-boost-on-an-r32-gtst-type-m/
Share on other sites

Dont run anymore boost unless your going to fit a frount mount. The standard side mount cooler suffers from heat soak and also 11 - 12 PSI is pretty much the limit for a stock turbo i would say say 13 - 14PSI max using the stock turbo and a front mount. Im sure some of the lads here can offer a more detailed answer and more advice.

Hey guys,

Sorry if this has been posted before.. i've tried multiple searches but cant find anything..

Just wanted to know whats stock boost for an r32 gtst?

I currently have a slightly modded r32 gtst and would like to know what stock boost is, and also how much the turbo could handle, on a cold night, without turbine failure.. i.e. safely.

Mods include - 3" exhaust (need to check up whether its a turbo back or cat back), pod filter and EBC.

Its currently running .8 bar boost which is about.. 11 - 12 PSI..

don't lie... you didn't do a search

stock boost for r32 gtsts is 10psi, like everyone above said you should see it spike abit more with aftermarket parts eg, exhaust, airfilter etc etc

mines currently running 13~14 with stock cooler, looking to upgrade to bigger one soon.

I see this topic and its funny to read everyone's posts about stock boost. My stock boost gauge reads about 6 psi and my after market reads around 8psi, yet when i boot it on the guage at the mechanics it shows around 10psi. Most people will say its 10psi although as stated its not good to run it too high for long periods of time with the stock cooler and turbo but then again there are guys out there running in excess of 12-14psi with stock turbo. Just my 2cents

don't lie... you didn't do a search

Uhh.. i actually did.. but didnt find anything that applied to me directly.. other people had front mounts etc..

So what about on a cold night? Wouldnt that be like having a front mount already since the air surrounding me is already cold?

Uhh.. i actually did.. but didnt find anything that applied to me directly.. other people had front mounts etc..

So what about on a cold night? Wouldnt that be like having a front mount already since the air surrounding me is already cold?

To a degree yes but then the biggest problem you have with the difference in ambient temp is the way that you have your car tuned for normal day to day driving. One of my mates has a stock R32 that runs like a dream on a colder night and his older brother who's car is slightly moded runs worst on a cold night. When it comes to stock boost and stock turbo i would stay at 10 mayb 12 psi but not for long periods of time and not for daily driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello First, I apologize if this is not the correct forum. Let me know and I will move it to the correct one. I'm having a problem with the tachometer on my Skyline R33 with an RB25DET Neo engine. I'll tell you from the beginning. I'll tell you from the beginning. I have the RB25DET Neo engine installed in a Nissan Patrol GU, with a Link G4X control unit specifically for that engine,  and I have fitted a Skyline R33 tachograph to the original GU dashboard, but it doesn't work properly. I have the tachometer connected to the positive and negative terminals of the GU panel's wiring, and the signal cable is connected directly to the ECU output pin, but the rpm fluctuates widely. Can anyone tell me if the output signal from an R33 ECU is the same as the output signal from an R34 ECU, or if the voltage and signal type are different? Regards and thanks.  
    • I guess it was the thought about "Oh if I were to drive this everyday". Then no, SL500 I wouldn't really consider lmao. 
    • Yeah actually really fair point. Idk what I was thinking when looking at the SL500. Now that I think about it, I feel like I would have more enjoyment out of a shitbox that I would need to repair than some fancy merc. Although I must admit the SL500 does look quite nice. My bad hahaha.
    • 100% Also "Not wanting to spend money" is THE WORST IDEA IMAGINABLE when coming to a project car of any kind. They EXIST to BURN MONEY. Sure, gas money is a thing. A stock car with the worst fuel economy ever sold would probably be cheaper than modifying a car with FREE petrol for the life of your ownership of it, lol.
    • Amount of time you're being observed by law enforcement is so minute, that you could be a dumb shit 90% of your driving time, and never lose a demerit. You could also be the best driver ever and still get hit with a fine.   When you realise how quickly everything turns from "Wee, we're having fun!" To "oh f**k oh f**k oh f**k", you start to realise the only way to be a good driver, is to not be doing anything dumb or unexpected by normies on the road. You want to go fast, go to the track. Someone there in a 1990s slow POS will also show you how bad of a driver you are as they lap 10 seconds per lap quicker than you can in a car that should be considerably faster.
×
×
  • Create New...