Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi fellas,

my car was spluttering really bad , so i cleaned my afm with contact cleaner. the spluttering improved but is still there after 5000 revs. does this mean the problem is definetely the afm or should i have it tested. as i live in the country i do not know where to send it or where to buy a new one etc. etc

please help as i do not want to drive around and wreck my engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72381-air-flow-meter/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I wouldnt mind knowing the answer to your problem aswell.

I have a similar problem where I hit a certain rev range and the car splutters, a bit like hitting the rev limiter. I have a power fc installed and I havent adjusted any settings since having it tuned as I am not 100% sure of what Im doing.

Did a bit of research and apparently the HKS wet style filters are no good for your AFM sensor. I just changed from a HKS mushroom filter to an Apexi power intake and I havent cleaned the AFM yet. Still havent noticed a difference with the splutter though.

Happens on stock boost (7psi) at around 5000 - 5500rpm and on 9.6psi at around 4500 - 5000pm. Wondering, could it be the fuel pump? rev limiter setting?

Also, what type of contact cleaner is recommended?

Sorry for hijacking your thread.

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72381-air-flow-meter/#findComment-1352170
Share on other sites

plugs are only about 10000km old (NGK iridiums to suit RB20DET - recommended by tuner??)

Had em installed the same time I got my power fc installed and tuned.

Had no problems then.

spluttering only started happening after I got a front mount and AVCR installed, upped the boost and re-tuned. On 9.6psi Ive got approx 200rwkw - is this maxing out my fuel pump and coil packs?

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72381-air-flow-meter/#findComment-1360025
Share on other sites

fuel pump should be ok

i am pretty sure that from what you describe it is the coils.

the coil packs dont really max out, they just die after a while. when mine died, the problem was much worse when the car was hot and i was running higher boost, like what has happened to u.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72381-air-flow-meter/#findComment-1362864
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...